tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-352375872024-03-14T12:48:32.953+01:00Up and FreeMainly a climbing and travel journal with other ramblings around the theme of life...uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.comBlogger433125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-74085236827355093552016-03-16T11:46:00.002+01:002016-03-16T11:52:50.892+01:00Primera Linea, or the projecting fever<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Projecting has kept me interested in climbing during the last several years. It is an interesting head and body game, that involves willpower, preparation and planning, and execution that might come quicker or later, better or worse than planned. Putting the red dot on the project is an interesting exercise in estimation - estimation of own strengths and weaknesses, desires, and possibilities. One can err on the side of choosing easy projects, those that take a couple of goes, maybe maximum a couple of days. One can also err on the side of choosing hard projects, those that take countless goes, counting in weeks, months, or years.<br />
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I have always striven to overcome my (numerous) limitations, and projecting hard routes provides a means to do this in climbing. I have usually erred on the side of choosing hard projects, one or two letter grades out there from my possibilities. It is a reflection of my personality, but also for me it relates to the ever-present human desire to go further, to challenge oneself to achieve just a bit more than currently in the realm of the possible.<br />
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After a pause from hard projects and several years of 'building the base of the pyramid' focused on getting back in shape after my shoulder injury, the time came to project once again. Primera Linea in Bruixes attracted me for several reasons - it is a great line, the first one bolted at the crag by Dani Andrada, it is also more vertical than the other routes at the crag, fitting better with some of my strengths. It also presented a challenge - I could not get off the ground. The first crux comes early, at the second bolt, and is hard, bouldery, overhanging. I could not do the start of the route when I tried it a year or two ago. I still could not do it when I came back to the idea of trying the route last fall. But on the positive side, the second crux is vertical, comes after a nice rest, and involves small crimps on orange sandstone, just the type of climbing I could master.<br />
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It became a nice motivation to train for the overhanging terrain, fitting well with my obsession to increase the number of pull-ups I could get out of my (mostly unwilling) body. The training started - and it worked! My arms became stronger, my core became fitter, and my back muscles grew. The only problem on the way to success became a sprained finger, that I smacked into the wall during one of the training sessions when launching for a dyno move. The finger rebelled, but following advice of some friends I decided to climb on it nevertheless as the sprain involved the top side of the hand at the knuckles rather than the usual climber injury of the bottom-of-the-hand tendons.<br />
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The psychologically draining part of projecting is the uncertainty - it can be today, or maybe tomorrow, or maybe next week. Conditions become more important than food or fun or any other trivialities of life. And then there is flow. Sometimes flow is on your side, and it feels incredible. However, in my experience, I send routes not when I have flow, but when I am tired, drained, and angry. It is interesting - on most my hardest projects, the day of flow, or 'subidon' in Spanish, I never sent - I got to a high point, I felt absorbed in the task, happy climbing better than ever, but I never sent. It was often the second or third try of the day, when more tired, pissed, and somehow determined, that I manage to overcome, to get to that next hold, to somehow stick the crux. It is in an unconscious state that I fight to the last instant, forgetting issues of control, forgetting the fall, pushing through and up.<br />
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And so it went this time - at the end of the day, after having climbed like a goddess to the highpoint of the day, and falling there once again, that I managed to overcome myself, to make the body go up while almost falling on the first crux, while the tendons screeched in pain, while the muscles refused to warm up. And so it goes - there is flow, there is this nice theory, and than there is reality. Projects happen when you are ready, but for me they happen after hard work, after many tries, after progress at the rhythm of a glacier, one move at a time. But they happen. So here goes a cheers to Primera Linea, a beautiful line, that will not have to endure my draws on it anymore this year!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisgOPHxq2bXVQS9QotCohvlMb1rnAPfXBMRoeoSzg7SErBlX2NawnxN624Af0sCsf72aRbSX3QVzZ2bbATJPagCdw8gBBTuBXklSwiOhfdqFNuoigTtKMpkl_9QQw0k0Jf2WhS/s1600/25803813726_52284b8f72_k.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisgOPHxq2bXVQS9QotCohvlMb1rnAPfXBMRoeoSzg7SErBlX2NawnxN624Af0sCsf72aRbSX3QVzZ2bbATJPagCdw8gBBTuBXklSwiOhfdqFNuoigTtKMpkl_9QQw0k0Jf2WhS/s320/25803813726_52284b8f72_k.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>At the rest before the second crux</i></div>
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<i>At the second crux</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXg_QVMVb36Zzj3uFIMGiXhZVCg49icPKJwr6QWHPn1WuROp9MNAtE78TodEbjcGeUF9Gal00RX7cje2Q3oN28RL8cLLFHk1iHIyideIZmWBSBOerKkUXhLuX33XEyRFZ79nvB/s1600/25803865766_1001b3a916_k.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXg_QVMVb36Zzj3uFIMGiXhZVCg49icPKJwr6QWHPn1WuROp9MNAtE78TodEbjcGeUF9Gal00RX7cje2Q3oN28RL8cLLFHk1iHIyideIZmWBSBOerKkUXhLuX33XEyRFZ79nvB/s320/25803865766_1001b3a916_k.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>The final crux move</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhQylQzK3NYOAItpjNxEbRdem0MhKoTgTuhbJTg6g6MGoqZsRXFxqHHIQl-KvmYTULAgcxwtVjMSNbw-RTM3Hm_cdixG2qUaZByMWBfCDjG9GvySoX7oJby5ZVJJcdqP47g2Wf/s1600/25709002542_2289c5d1de_k.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhQylQzK3NYOAItpjNxEbRdem0MhKoTgTuhbJTg6g6MGoqZsRXFxqHHIQl-KvmYTULAgcxwtVjMSNbw-RTM3Hm_cdixG2qUaZByMWBfCDjG9GvySoX7oJby5ZVJJcdqP47g2Wf/s320/25709002542_2289c5d1de_k.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>
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<i>Rest after the second crux, before the last 7a part to the anchor</i></div>
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Thanks for support and training to Jonas, and for psychological tutoring to Carlos. Pictures by Jonas.</div>
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uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-73590062675242740372015-04-04T08:39:00.000+02:002015-04-04T08:39:58.285+02:00Riglos Fiesta<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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One more visit to the vertical land of Riglos proved a bit more successful almost 10 years later. I was in shape enough to go up the Fiesta de los Biceps and Directa on Visera and the Murciana on Pison, on the top of which we were greeted by Patagonia-force gales that made the first two rappels a proper nightmare. </div>
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Otherwise all is well and unchanged in the tranquil pueblo of Riglos, although the routes are getting more chalk and polish every day, the big stones still stick out and refuse to bulge from the walls for the happiness of all climbers.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTEGrDPyQFLykfFUwjk1j3DXQqjnWL-dfoZVaUPX4j0WzXw4gnCn8fTlLgGsHEkXzWVwd7qEO7XU4JA5CKCWCAxFfbIL-pJkQdEooDFma5Wwr5P9jNpcDp5NFwqZ7HDQyV4StC/s1600/r1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTEGrDPyQFLykfFUwjk1j3DXQqjnWL-dfoZVaUPX4j0WzXw4gnCn8fTlLgGsHEkXzWVwd7qEO7XU4JA5CKCWCAxFfbIL-pJkQdEooDFma5Wwr5P9jNpcDp5NFwqZ7HDQyV4StC/s1600/r1.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i> Sunset over the towers</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij7X3gSv6bhZEVz41DdWCGt7VIB6joJjBgZUb1sYW-R32YKU3XWD1H6YfiR5XAqIYkdKWFI39LNsbkYXOjidAOgj5_sfpWKa8b5HSdCDjmW7o3Qz2zBqM1NxWou9Pch0yqk0EI/s1600/r3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij7X3gSv6bhZEVz41DdWCGt7VIB6joJjBgZUb1sYW-R32YKU3XWD1H6YfiR5XAqIYkdKWFI39LNsbkYXOjidAOgj5_sfpWKa8b5HSdCDjmW7o3Qz2zBqM1NxWou9Pch0yqk0EI/s1600/r3.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i> Jonas following on the Murciana, great exposure and climbing</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgOi0dEGDoL6aBkTxIaIVCpI-OzWykH4KchB_Md5XLb5Ojh2ToifBl5Tv3hPestnNzPYFlqG1VBLnMnR7zwlVu-5deWJLjqC6PhNQXN_93qO-V3T4LUVPOXT7-oKpfuTj3j4eA/s1600/r4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgOi0dEGDoL6aBkTxIaIVCpI-OzWykH4KchB_Md5XLb5Ojh2ToifBl5Tv3hPestnNzPYFlqG1VBLnMnR7zwlVu-5deWJLjqC6PhNQXN_93qO-V3T4LUVPOXT7-oKpfuTj3j4eA/s1600/r4.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<i>Myself of the Fiesta, giving those biceps a break</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp07mPOhUXBPwgef-UV4EDjVsYNDc4mIhouadmK2xjyyqmZTrO1md_i3lxsm1E2k6S7GIxxHrvN203LC7EF_VmMUf9JrLR-VBU1CtqnYLHAsICkr5TMXKRCKfPBK4v_97l4-gG/s1600/r2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp07mPOhUXBPwgef-UV4EDjVsYNDc4mIhouadmK2xjyyqmZTrO1md_i3lxsm1E2k6S7GIxxHrvN203LC7EF_VmMUf9JrLR-VBU1CtqnYLHAsICkr5TMXKRCKfPBK4v_97l4-gG/s1600/r2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Happy at the top</i><br />
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All three routes are very good and recommendable, with Murciana feeling the as the most serious undertaking despite supposedly "easier" grades. The grades did not seem easy overall, but very fun overhanging climbing worth a visit.</div>
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uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-21673159149609766242015-03-20T18:36:00.003+01:002015-03-20T18:36:56.445+01:00Quick update<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I haven't had much time for this blog lately, but climbing has been happening a bit. Here are a couple of updates with pictures. Mainly local climbing these days, a bit in France, a bit in Spain. Climbing overhangs has become a bit easier and more interesting. Below myself trying ATP, a 7c in Masriudoms cave close to Tarragona.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghdwj-3fWHHRC9vl0gnTQWasO4UMMJDoeQuxw2AxxOrSKa_RjeTu7IpvI_oMDg0IWkf1bKViVxn26FB11CWW2_QJp43KgdntiwQTIMAp0pJ1076nGcn8RXh_ycWcS7dogGpnGo/s1600/mas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghdwj-3fWHHRC9vl0gnTQWasO4UMMJDoeQuxw2AxxOrSKa_RjeTu7IpvI_oMDg0IWkf1bKViVxn26FB11CWW2_QJp43KgdntiwQTIMAp0pJ1076nGcn8RXh_ycWcS7dogGpnGo/s1600/mas.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
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And from closer by:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiAe-pvdw_JPUphyPXmBpSGfAvWunMYv8cKy9NeFNkrbHgPaM8WjmAfeowVial0_lM3XH0f0MFeWCAhJEUFedBbIv3alGIqevReNGaE3BAfJJ2_j8wWPj8WX0dQnEoIU9DfCsN/s1600/mas2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiAe-pvdw_JPUphyPXmBpSGfAvWunMYv8cKy9NeFNkrbHgPaM8WjmAfeowVial0_lM3XH0f0MFeWCAhJEUFedBbIv3alGIqevReNGaE3BAfJJ2_j8wWPj8WX0dQnEoIU9DfCsN/s1600/mas2.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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And more climbing in Spain, from slabs in Col de Nargo:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDYvpiFzp9BsIlbEv1rmorQV0aNvDUUFjbEDkP5QntVekhWPktn16VtP5c4H-_q6XXOkBK2hQLQyakPb6WjnmPScXEirzxBYVG6Oy1f9c-bCOSH9QmxnkL_GfkSY1ceLjpHIId/s1600/col+d+n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDYvpiFzp9BsIlbEv1rmorQV0aNvDUUFjbEDkP5QntVekhWPktn16VtP5c4H-_q6XXOkBK2hQLQyakPb6WjnmPScXEirzxBYVG6Oy1f9c-bCOSH9QmxnkL_GfkSY1ceLjpHIId/s1600/col+d+n.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
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While I train my back and prepare for the new season, I have to leave you with this - looking to the future, to the past, to life. Training the back muscles.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBg33V8zMb-Qac7YmEGvVNf1hUFtSYXcxnLc6SiqSjOv2JTaiLoK5p5-yjJyyNHNu-EtG2qTZiRlGWVmONden5Atju1xOzATaL2jGDacBx_ZA2rul2lJ-318jVj9pqj-xBK8QN/s1600/back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBg33V8zMb-Qac7YmEGvVNf1hUFtSYXcxnLc6SiqSjOv2JTaiLoK5p5-yjJyyNHNu-EtG2qTZiRlGWVmONden5Atju1xOzATaL2jGDacBx_ZA2rul2lJ-318jVj9pqj-xBK8QN/s1600/back.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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All pictures by Jonas.</div>
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uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-73621068166039909982014-12-04T21:25:00.002+01:002014-12-04T21:30:29.767+01:00El burro<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSwTdRs-GuMWVaRZmTZnK4hD-Wn00md0WBDd5vsQ5Y1y0eS_C8bsKltQQqCow5RPyhlYbX7QB6eRNp7ICBqlzMF5Cpa20yFaATHMA3qZhCGzmxXbaoRQuvYzCJa_nT35CJpu29/s1600/tree.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSwTdRs-GuMWVaRZmTZnK4hD-Wn00md0WBDd5vsQ5Y1y0eS_C8bsKltQQqCow5RPyhlYbX7QB6eRNp7ICBqlzMF5Cpa20yFaATHMA3qZhCGzmxXbaoRQuvYzCJa_nT35CJpu29/s1600/tree.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></div>
<h2 style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Roboto, sans-serif; font-size: 24px; font-weight: 500; line-height: 32px; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px;">
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A veces sueño que Mario Santiago<br />
viene a buscarme con su moto negra.<br />
Y dejamos atrás la ciudad y a medida<br />
que las luces van desapareciendo<br />
Mario Santiago me dice que se trata<br />
de una moto robada, la última moto<br />
robada para viajar por las pobres tierras<br />
del norte, en dirección a Texas,<br />
persiguiendo un sueño innombrable,<br />
inclasificable, el sueño de nuestra juventud,<br />
es decir el sueño más valiente de todos<br />
nuestros sueños. Y de tal manera<br />
cómo negarme a montar la veloz moto negra<br />
del norte y salir rajados por aquellos caminos<br />
que antaño recorrieran los santos de México,<br />
los poetas mendicantes de México,<br />
las sanguijuelas taciturnas de Tepito<br />
o la colonia Guerrero, todos en la misma senda,<br />
donde se confunden y mezclan los tiempos:<br />
verbales y físicos, el ayer y la afasia.</div>
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Y a veces sueño que Mario Santiago<br />
viene a buscarme, o es un poeta sin rostro,<br />
una cabeza sin ojos, ni boca, ni nariz,<br />
sólo piel y voluntad, y yo sin preguntar nada<br />
me subo a la moto y partimos<br />
por los caminos del norte, la cabeza y yo,<br />
extraños tripulantes embarcados en una ruta<br />
miserable, caminos borrados por el polvo y la lluvia,<br />
tierra de moscas y lagartijas, matorrales resecos<br />
y ventiscas de arena, el único teatro concebible para nuestra poesía</div>
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Y a veces sueño que el camino<br />
que nuestra moto o nuestro anhelo recorre<br />
no empieza en mi sueño sino en el sueño<br />
de otros: los inocentes, los bienaventurados,<br />
los mansos, los que para nuestra desgracia<br />
ya no están aquí. Y así Mario Santiago y yo<br />
salimos de la ciudad de México que es la prolongación<br />
de tantos sueños, la materialización de tantas<br />
pesadillas, y remontamos los estados<br />
siempre hacia el norte, siempre por el camino<br />
de los coyotes, y nuestra moto entonces<br />
es del color de la noche. Nuestra moto<br />
es un burro negro que viaja sin prisa<br />
por las tierras de la Curiosidad. Un burro negro<br />
que se desplaza por la humanidad y la geometría<br />
de estos pobres paisajes desolados.<br />
Y la risa de Mario o de la cabeza<br />
saluda a los fantasmas de nuestra juventud,<br />
el sueño innombrable e inútil<br />
de la valentía.</div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #535353; font-family: 'Open Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 24px; margin-bottom: 20px; padding: 0px;">
Y a veces creo ver una moto negra<br />
como un burro alejándose por los caminos<br />
de tierra de Zacatecas y Coahuila, en los límites<br />
del sueño, y sin alcanzar a comprender<br />
su sentido, su significado último,<br />
comprendo no obstante su música:<br />
una alegre canción de despedida.</div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #535353; font-family: 'Open Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 24px; margin-bottom: 20px; padding: 0px;">
Y acaso son los gestos de valor los que<br />
nos dicen adiós, sin resentimiento ni amargura,<br />
en paz con su gratuidad absoluta y con nosotros mismos. Son los pequeños desafíos inútiles -o que<br />
los años y la costumbre consintieron<br />
que creyéramos inútiles-los que nos saludan,<br />
los que nos hacen señales enigmáticas con las manos,<br />
en medio de la noche, a un lado de la carretera,<br />
como nuestros hijos queridos y abandonados,<br />
criados solos en estos desiertos calcáreos,<br />
como el resplandor que un día nos atravesó<br />
y que habíamos olvidado.</div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #535353; font-family: 'Open Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 24px; margin-bottom: 20px; padding: 0px;">
Y a veces sueño que Mario llega<br />
con su moto negra en medio de la pesadilla<br />
y partimos rumbo al norte,<br />
rumbo a los pueblos fantasmas donde moran<br />
las lagartijas y las moscas.<br />
y mientras el sueño me transporta<br />
de un continente a otro<br />
a través de una ducha de estrellas frías e indoloras,<br />
veo la moto negra, como un burro de otro planeta,<br />
partir en dos las tierras de Coahuila.<br />
un burro de otro planeta<br />
que es el anhelo desbocado de nuestra ignorancia,<br />
pero que también es nuestra esperanza<br />
y nuestro valor.</div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #535353; font-family: 'Open Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 24px; margin-bottom: 20px; padding: 0px;">
Un valor innombrable e inútil, bien cierto,<br />
pero reencontrado en los márgenes<br />
del sueño más remoto,<br />
en las particiones del sueño final,<br />
en la senda confusa y magnética<br />
de los burros y de los poetas.</div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #535353; font-family: 'Open Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 24px; margin-bottom: 20px; padding: 0px;">
<span style="background-color: #f1f1f1; color: #888888; font-size: 12px; text-align: center;">Roberto Bolaño</span></div>
</div>
uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-88971474043260827122014-11-29T19:54:00.002+01:002014-11-29T19:54:40.625+01:00Poetry minute<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15.3599996566772px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 1em;">
Estoy viva<br />
como fruta madura<br />
dueña ya de inviernos y veranos,<br />
abuela de los pájaros,<br />
tejedora del viento navegante.</div>
<div class="text_exposed_show" style="background-color: white; color: #666666; display: inline; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 15.3599996566772px;">
<div style="margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 1em;">
No se ha educado aún mi corazón<br />
y, niña, tiemblo en los atardeceres,<br />
me deslumbran el verde, las marimbas<br />
y el ruido de la lluvia<br />
hermanándose con mi húmedo vientre,<br />
cuando todo es más suave y luminoso.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 1em;">
Crezco y no aprendo a crecer,<br />
no me desilusiono,<br />
ni me vuelvo mujer envuelta en velos,<br />
descreída de todo, lamentando su suerte.<br />
No. Con cada día, se me nacen los ojos del asombro,<br />
de la tierra parida,<br />
el canto de los pueblos,<br />
los brazos del obrero construyendo,<br />
la mujer vendedora con su ramo de hijos,<br />
los niños alegres marchando hacia el colegio.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 1em;">
Si.<br />
Es verdad que a ratos estoy triste<br />
y salgo a los caminos,<br />
suelta como mi pelo,<br />
y lloro por las cosas más dulces y más tiernas<br />
y atesoro recuerdos<br />
brotando entre mis huesos<br />
y soy una infinita espiral que se retuerce<br />
entre lunas y soles,<br />
avanzando en los días,<br />
desenrollando el tiempo<br />
con miedo o desparpajo,<br />
desenvainando estrellas<br />
para subir más alto, más arriba,<br />
dándole caza al aire,<br />
gozándome en el ser que me sustenta,<br />
en la eterna marea de flujos y reflujos<br />
que mueve el universo<br />
y que impulsa los giros redondos de la tierra.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 1em;">
Soy la mujer que piensa.<br />
Algún día<br />
mis ojos<br />
encenderán luciérnagas.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 1em;">
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gioconda_Belli">Gioconda Belli</a></div>
</div>
</div>
uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-11034262759797154942014-06-24T22:42:00.002+02:002014-06-25T07:30:47.558+02:00Cooler temperatures at Pic du Midi d'Ossau<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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To escape the heat wave we went into the mountains, the ones that are so close, the ones whose existence it is so easy to forget. But there they were, ready and welcoming, cool and still snowy.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbvYt3UdSobvzClA_Sqp9o705AcQE1LN5AJ33tqoj2rnYWwEgv5XEd5-V3j7eQ-R1RjXzI9kC0wfQyNw52xCJS3uanEi1ZEQvVq17lPYfowx2kpRW5VZiQMLbzLlhXS9ykdD9m/s1600/midi2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbvYt3UdSobvzClA_Sqp9o705AcQE1LN5AJ33tqoj2rnYWwEgv5XEd5-V3j7eQ-R1RjXzI9kC0wfQyNw52xCJS3uanEi1ZEQvVq17lPYfowx2kpRW5VZiQMLbzLlhXS9ykdD9m/s1600/midi2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Approaching the Pic, South face coming into the view. Surprisingly short approach (400 vertical meters, about 1hr 20 to the hut with normal pace) brings us into the close contact.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7yyIq7gY6vjfXRXB3rDD-DvAcZ8iB_VjRLmSMfvVYLn5owpodttmQtp8zTA5hE7T_MQ4kGJd78Qp2tydj_0ELhPdDxpYKRF8quCw-kUcAgLieSMvqQPRXvY2wdDSQ377N9Pzv/s1600/Midi+sud.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7yyIq7gY6vjfXRXB3rDD-DvAcZ8iB_VjRLmSMfvVYLn5owpodttmQtp8zTA5hE7T_MQ4kGJd78Qp2tydj_0ELhPdDxpYKRF8quCw-kUcAgLieSMvqQPRXvY2wdDSQ377N9Pzv/s1600/Midi+sud.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />
With very nice weather, we were able to climb the South East Direct route in a long and painful day. The two hard pitches, at 6b+ and 6c, were hard, and the climbing was still very sustained, especially in the higher part of the wall.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw6rrGe8n_gYu49zw6G0uj6OUapiw9kWsEC8h1JVWZGDHumYwDdjk3GPbxmS7WjmbDgguU5rxx-L6ctrZHqowJqlvX5PrMsDuSUdNveESOEuXcbYItzu2HqOs7ClHhCFqA_i3N/s1600/xavi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw6rrGe8n_gYu49zw6G0uj6OUapiw9kWsEC8h1JVWZGDHumYwDdjk3GPbxmS7WjmbDgguU5rxx-L6ctrZHqowJqlvX5PrMsDuSUdNveESOEuXcbYItzu2HqOs7ClHhCFqA_i3N/s1600/xavi.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Javi coming up to the anchor before the first hard 6b+ pitch.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ZF5v_stPvkHLxaePCsyZ9X9CdVF0d8UZbfXR97R-uvCrCMgRS5wA-3z3O06YQcvv_EPQXIrMO98kuKpMGnXJsihVNAWTkwjQSYF7CWH4lp1L5uDOeLMpZwZs3vuU9sfyrHBE/s1600/following.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ZF5v_stPvkHLxaePCsyZ9X9CdVF0d8UZbfXR97R-uvCrCMgRS5wA-3z3O06YQcvv_EPQXIrMO98kuKpMGnXJsihVNAWTkwjQSYF7CWH4lp1L5uDOeLMpZwZs3vuU9sfyrHBE/s1600/following.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
And myself following somewhere low on the route.</div>
uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-91526782095623577022014-06-07T15:23:00.002+02:002015-03-20T21:25:07.661+01:00New summer in Tarn<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This summer has been nicely initiated in Tarn, an old French climbing site that we are rediscovering in all its flying colors and scary run-outs. The climbing here is very good, the quality of the routes being (much) higher then average, the rock resembles Siurana, with less sharp pockets sometimes reminding one of sandstone and Fontainebleau. The routes are very high quality and - usually very long. It is not unusual to see several parties with 100m ropes as 40 meters is considered rather "short" for a route here. Surprisingly enough, hard routes are also closely located to easier ones, and it is one of the rare places to provide high-quality 8as and 6as some meters apart.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9H0lDCo15dir_ad4TeJimL_fbbphuqhet2HI2OPKbAezfImX1SILhx-cjcgQzAv7I5LXfdAEPVBhSQ-Nig8CqglfZbw8GS8EH3IolaqQWTsgAM3KKtp7XJgAi8Qgm9Y3W9sbh/s1600/tarn1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9H0lDCo15dir_ad4TeJimL_fbbphuqhet2HI2OPKbAezfImX1SILhx-cjcgQzAv7I5LXfdAEPVBhSQ-Nig8CqglfZbw8GS8EH3IolaqQWTsgAM3KKtp7XJgAi8Qgm9Y3W9sbh/s1600/tarn1.png" height="400" width="288" /></a></div>
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<i>Another unending 8a on the Tennessee wall</i></div>
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Que fas aqui and the Tennessee walls are two of the major sectors, offering around 100 meters of sustained vertical to overhanging climbing on immaculate limestone. The other special feature of Tarn to remember is the bolting - it is known to be rather spaced, having between 4 to 6 meters between bolts being a usual site. It is also to be expected to have a crux reaching the anchor, usually well removed from the last bolt. It is "safe" in the sense that the start of the routes is usually densely bolted, and the bolts are farthest on the top. This does not make it easier for the scared chickens like myself. I have psyched myself up to trying to onsight up to 6c+, while projecting 7c... But hopefully with some work, matters can be improved.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinAZQC_brvn7-Q4DtdompSR8X9HaGaQmGKeWqt7-ypdGvrg1qc0J_BPxD2k7jHWutITA5h-CzrLgQFxzYDRq37gRpNHjaRlCN06G8fBtklj3NWdBAz4syyUxmEi8jxeHHkTVj6/s1600/tarn3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinAZQC_brvn7-Q4DtdompSR8X9HaGaQmGKeWqt7-ypdGvrg1qc0J_BPxD2k7jHWutITA5h-CzrLgQFxzYDRq37gRpNHjaRlCN06G8fBtklj3NWdBAz4syyUxmEi8jxeHHkTVj6/s1600/tarn3.png" height="400" width="283" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Feerie pour une autre fois, a long 8a in the middle of Que Fas Aqui sector</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFh6L07V67-wajp57uoGHVeubHBZg32Y7Ah959sOC8w-AmhJMTp9s4oZp1h2kG0Z75pZYBfmNKfZ_cS0_Tb6Os-gu-ThB_u43keoo4rF3d1J6y7izxul31bQcZl8-BKPdpuhyR/s1600/tarn2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFh6L07V67-wajp57uoGHVeubHBZg32Y7Ah959sOC8w-AmhJMTp9s4oZp1h2kG0Z75pZYBfmNKfZ_cS0_Tb6Os-gu-ThB_u43keoo4rF3d1J6y7izxul31bQcZl8-BKPdpuhyR/s1600/tarn2.png" height="400" width="385" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Among the birds, same route, Que Fas Aqui sector</i></div>
<br />
Despite the lurking fears of gravity and falling, the place is spectacular enough to keep us coming back over and over, wishing for more.<br />
<br />
Some recommended routes (careful, personal opinion only):<br />
<br />
<b>Nor desir sector:</b><br />
Djebly la mouche (best 6c in Tarn!)<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>De que fas aqui sector:</b><br />
La puerta del sol (6c+ 1st pitch, hard crux, but awesome climbing)<br />
Une Marie pour deux (40m 7a+, incredible)<br />
Les culottes de ma grand-mère (6a)<br />
Fuck the curve (2nd pitch 20m, 7a, nice)<br />
La femme grigri (7b)<br />
Dimanche vagabond (6b+, nice sendbag as the start seemed much harder than 6b)<br />
Nulle part ailleurs (6a)<br />
20 000 lieux dans les airs (6b+, careful, longer than 40m)<br />
Arachnide (7c)<br />
<br />
<b>Figues au cul sector:</b><br />
What the fuck today (hard 7b, but very good, long way between bolts)<br />
Rose paille et jaune bonbon (incredible 7a+ for 54 meters, better than its neighbors on the right, still far between bolts)<br />
<br />
<b>Amphiteatre sector:</b><br />
Veuve noire (7b)<br />
Jour de doye (7a)<br />
GR15 (6c+, incredible but run-out)<br />
La napouse (7c)<br />
<br />
<b>Tennessee sector:</b><br />
Les ailes du desir (7b+, hard, classic!)<br />
Une colonne derriere les verrous (7b 2nd pitch, great jamming!)<br />
Le grand pelerinage (7c, for vertical/slab masters)<br />
Pyromania (7c+ to the top, classic)<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Trezor du Zebre:</b><br />
Jeux de plage (6a, incredible!)<br />
<br />
<b>Planete Causse</b><br />
Mon dide (7b, hard crux especially if you can't hold open-handed pinches)<br />
Omar m'a tuer (7b, great)<br />
Planete causse (7a+, really??? great jugs)<br />
<br />
To be continued.<br />
<br />
<i>Pictures by Jonas</i></div>
uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-69461732854466713692014-05-17T17:40:00.002+02:002014-05-17T17:54:24.456+02:00The day I sent Energia Positiva<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It was today, after the crowds were gone, and the hot temperatures have not hit yet. I was strong, the spirit of the mountain was with me, and up I flew.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsdaPNyqy7jcrooPi4mcZWg-OTzzBg4iA-HnARZd8WYss2xJI5Zn_8q8_8AmgH1KbILQGQfBQeZYXIDkbzVwxMAHRojeTTH_-DjDrRXQLpO1fYWBsXYhl_dJFoBh8mpQGGC6o3/s1600/Energia-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsdaPNyqy7jcrooPi4mcZWg-OTzzBg4iA-HnARZd8WYss2xJI5Zn_8q8_8AmgH1KbILQGQfBQeZYXIDkbzVwxMAHRojeTTH_-DjDrRXQLpO1fYWBsXYhl_dJFoBh8mpQGGC6o3/s1600/Energia-1.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit5fybr6FYcI0fsC1kVOwHTZPtdmY810FzWa0o4wehxVUCy-LONdq3BQxNrRc1IP9CjQaXhMi0H8GrmgnrLYD9RST9G8DNHMFzf0AAkIlMwsVNi3ryGm_f8jeliYWHSmFeMmzd/s1600/Energia-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit5fybr6FYcI0fsC1kVOwHTZPtdmY810FzWa0o4wehxVUCy-LONdq3BQxNrRc1IP9CjQaXhMi0H8GrmgnrLYD9RST9G8DNHMFzf0AAkIlMwsVNi3ryGm_f8jeliYWHSmFeMmzd/s1600/Energia-3.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFG3MDbsr6b5HRVD3g9cLLjx2S_DiY08KJ_-A2hvXVtQzhOdGVv9PXGH_1i6mTUZOqkvYzvVknp25dbZcYJ7co9OkwTYovjGXa07sBWBoupNxfD8xpA9EQwiJggbzFFFDyiMQW/s1600/Energia-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFG3MDbsr6b5HRVD3g9cLLjx2S_DiY08KJ_-A2hvXVtQzhOdGVv9PXGH_1i6mTUZOqkvYzvVknp25dbZcYJ7co9OkwTYovjGXa07sBWBoupNxfD8xpA9EQwiJggbzFFFDyiMQW/s1600/Energia-5.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Thanks to Jonas for pictures, patience, and belays. Thanks to Xavi for having us at his house several times this spring.</i></div>
uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-17334021220580488162014-03-24T21:34:00.001+01:002014-03-24T21:34:35.501+01:00Climbing in Wadi Rum<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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My last time in the desert was in 2005, when I spent a couple of weeks in the Red Rocks in the US. It was also spring, the flowers were blooming, and the climbing was new and good to me. Desert remained a fascinating place, and I have been wishing to go to another desert, Wadi Rum, for some years since. Finally, although with a few difficulties, it worked out this year.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnapmqcZQ0knUiAYc7BKAZixRu44N35BcHtnO0jsrXlmvIDHqLxSaohWGUP8H5aFDFNl89AklptywG2AITwYaaXXwjAKwvp8pUI_FJlDS5fCXnO-Q762dsqCPAiW7BmMlR-q-7/s1600/wadi3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnapmqcZQ0knUiAYc7BKAZixRu44N35BcHtnO0jsrXlmvIDHqLxSaohWGUP8H5aFDFNl89AklptywG2AITwYaaXXwjAKwvp8pUI_FJlDS5fCXnO-Q762dsqCPAiW7BmMlR-q-7/s1600/wadi3.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Wadi Rum village</i></div>
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Wadi means a valley in Arabic, thus the Rum village is situated in the middle of a valley between several impressive walls to its sides, with both better or worse rock depending on color and the erosion patterns. Getting there involves flying to either Amman or Tel Aviv, then taking the bus or taxi to Eilat/Aqaba, and then another taxi to Wadi Rum (25JD). The ride already gives some idea of things to come. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitZQ2_w8-4NbATwye2lM8gu1c143WtO6BOkQmHL6664urNvyBIzS_lF_c7tOS-3JH-CGwzEuacosCxSqAgByPMi3WkzgIhnlweZJAM44q2MIF-VD4eLstodPf_Gf2yR0irTdK8/s1600/wadi7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitZQ2_w8-4NbATwye2lM8gu1c143WtO6BOkQmHL6664urNvyBIzS_lF_c7tOS-3JH-CGwzEuacosCxSqAgByPMi3WkzgIhnlweZJAM44q2MIF-VD4eLstodPf_Gf2yR0irTdK8/s1600/wadi7.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Wadi Rum at night</i></div>
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The village is rather poor, resembling many other third-world countries, with children chasing travelers practicing the recently learnt "hello" and asking for spare dinars. Religion keeps people in check - whereas alcohol is not allowed, tobacco is highly used and overused. The local saying has it that smoking is good for the heart. Cars have replaced camels as the most efficient transportation system in the desert, Toyota enjoying the lion's market share of this market.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3IpPgwwqNAxhqTk427m6zWY92O7iokTkeqj8FHaOkO83qbaNNqHCbBSBmi9m1zp96WG0R4dhl9FQbwsZRbelGvbnFx9Zpi2cteQ491MlAYt0OErew_UL1SLhtD0-lkovqKS1Y/s1600/wadi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3IpPgwwqNAxhqTk427m6zWY92O7iokTkeqj8FHaOkO83qbaNNqHCbBSBmi9m1zp96WG0R4dhl9FQbwsZRbelGvbnFx9Zpi2cteQ491MlAYt0OErew_UL1SLhtD0-lkovqKS1Y/s1600/wadi.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Toyota, the new camel</i></div>
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Several routes are popular with the climbers here, the biggest challenge being the loose and friable sandstone. The quality of the rock is very variable, so one has to decide all the time which holds to take and which ones to avoid. It is also dangerous to climb after the rain, as rock becomes softer and protection does not hold. I hear in sandstone areas in Germany it is illegal to climb for at least a day after the rain. Similarly in Red Rocks the saying was to wait at least 3 days after a heavy rainfall.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirqkyxQiL2s-85ICUXR8KCXGG4mCaGge9PBVb-BHBjXXH_vtsVKysUy0K3CaFn1N9vkeucM9T4Wv6U505Q6_qZIrTk3cq0X4gxdaykWFYckXtIds6pOFyc8HNHXzk545KkCiX1/s1600/beauty.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirqkyxQiL2s-85ICUXR8KCXGG4mCaGge9PBVb-BHBjXXH_vtsVKysUy0K3CaFn1N9vkeucM9T4Wv6U505Q6_qZIrTk3cq0X4gxdaykWFYckXtIds6pOFyc8HNHXzk545KkCiX1/s1600/beauty.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Approaching the Beauty</i></div>
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Unfortunately for us, this March was unusually rainy, with over 10mm falling in only two days we were there whereas the monthly average for March is around 5mm...We had to wait out some days and do other touristy things while it rained - and even snowed - around us in the desert. That explains the green colors surrounding some pictures. But finally the sun came out and climbing did happen.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkOVqS10KhmTAheB8ATHixfvC7-ZQf0UfK-G3IquZnnm8vU8QHpnt9fW2DBKq4RWiwrtVLFGfyU63NMOnIfYX5kZ8ittoEImkXmGfSDIxWstQA2SVa-fAihTKapkZlvHl3VVeM/s1600/beauty5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkOVqS10KhmTAheB8ATHixfvC7-ZQf0UfK-G3IquZnnm8vU8QHpnt9fW2DBKq4RWiwrtVLFGfyU63NMOnIfYX5kZ8ittoEImkXmGfSDIxWstQA2SVa-fAihTKapkZlvHl3VVeM/s1600/beauty5.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<i>Still approaching the Beauty</i></div>
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The Beauty is a duly famous route not only for the climbing, but also for a wonderful and tricky approach to the route. The route finding is not always trivial, and takes you through intricate labyrinths of slot canyons inside the sacred mountain. It is nice enough to make mistakes of the route finding fun and exciting experiences of their own.</div>
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When finally reached, the wall is very impressive, with the best rock of the trip for us. Every piece of protection looked solid and inspired confidence, not the usual with Wadi Rum climbing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij9l_DVKivrNVFZIWradckFNupjxzYyn1CZYSggg5IR8NV4St8oAMp3XpnajRBpLBbBrKDKOAx6S3dFq2rEgQn95NNWI445y2xOWmO6zTqKxKuZnc4wYTE76B8EKiE5d-7GGSO/s1600/beauty3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij9l_DVKivrNVFZIWradckFNupjxzYyn1CZYSggg5IR8NV4St8oAMp3XpnajRBpLBbBrKDKOAx6S3dFq2rEgQn95NNWI445y2xOWmO6zTqKxKuZnc4wYTE76B8EKiE5d-7GGSO/s1600/beauty3.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Up the perfect rock of the first pitch of the Beauty</i></div>
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Varied crack-climbing went from pleasant on the first pitch, to awkward on the second, to this perfect crack on the last.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRRdVi2encMjCum89qpCsKQEy11Yv3dD5fkArD8ZUv3uUkTzoH-qub_C5YhIhW3M5KTiSmLk2nlhSzO_Hz-znLxEEbU3KvQPOPo6DDn3w-3NdpNF2BXYKG0wuUYiogFpA-ZrJW/s1600/beauty2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRRdVi2encMjCum89qpCsKQEy11Yv3dD5fkArD8ZUv3uUkTzoH-qub_C5YhIhW3M5KTiSmLk2nlhSzO_Hz-znLxEEbU3KvQPOPo6DDn3w-3NdpNF2BXYKG0wuUYiogFpA-ZrJW/s1600/beauty2.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<i> The last pitch of the Beauty</i></div>
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In the Wadi Rum village we stayed with <a href="http://www.wadirumdesert.com/">Ali Hamad</a>, who provided us with bed and board, and took care of our travel needs around the desert. While his wife cooked us all possible variations of rice, he drove us with an easy hand to the Barrah canyon and the Nassrani wall. Good place to stay if you are not willing to rough it in the Rest House.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9SKkk5AKp6tetieHmYRzmfsVHp1rYA0NA9rBlQuFu85vpLC0-Kx22XkWAfHbjWY7kCJM0FJKFwRh3kowdzPWj7MLq4pNXEi0i0PX471vZiRY1hhliKaU_6Ra4rJiEFeJl3vBR/s1600/ali.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9SKkk5AKp6tetieHmYRzmfsVHp1rYA0NA9rBlQuFu85vpLC0-Kx22XkWAfHbjWY7kCJM0FJKFwRh3kowdzPWj7MLq4pNXEi0i0PX471vZiRY1hhliKaU_6Ra4rJiEFeJl3vBR/s1600/ali.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Ali driving through the desert</i></div>
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Barragh canyon is popular with climbers due to the relatively good rock, and we enjoyed climbing the Star of Abu Judaida there as well as the first pitches of the Merlin's Wand. Crack climbing skills are very useful on both.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo7wJy_k5KwdxLtKPNQPiYIbDMgiS45bh2vmAdiwVOGqEYRdFXi6GdQz6_faoVxiWhgcXE52mjNpJ0MHQBiyOCgWNPCWe0XVzkwk1_Ho8DENCNa8Qfz01NZ1-txRf-bAgtvmqK/s1600/star.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo7wJy_k5KwdxLtKPNQPiYIbDMgiS45bh2vmAdiwVOGqEYRdFXi6GdQz6_faoVxiWhgcXE52mjNpJ0MHQBiyOCgWNPCWe0XVzkwk1_Ho8DENCNa8Qfz01NZ1-txRf-bAgtvmqK/s1600/star.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i> Close to the top of the Star of Abu Judaida</i></div>
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The highlight of the trip for us was the Guerre Sainte, or the Jihad route, going up the Eastern Nassrani Wall - in the middle-left of the picture below, close to the black streak (that becomes a waterfall in case of rain) on top of the white wall. Opened by Arnaud Petit, it is a face-climbing jewel of the desert, with relatively solid rock and bolt protection all the way up.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8tbXUEceztk6Drh4_yMdtZ46VOKM8Om1IbIKP6HZcNpDEHBnqqj83__IDZbkF-4wDzh9xjJUJQjau4zlkAP34MmrKvuQyUY0UZe9SkxWu8-VpYBBmwG0iQLwIeCVPFvGphd8f/s1600/jihad+wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8tbXUEceztk6Drh4_yMdtZ46VOKM8Om1IbIKP6HZcNpDEHBnqqj83__IDZbkF-4wDzh9xjJUJQjau4zlkAP34MmrKvuQyUY0UZe9SkxWu8-VpYBBmwG0iQLwIeCVPFvGphd8f/s1600/jihad+wall.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Nassrani Wall</i></div>
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Bolt protection does not mean relaxed climbing though, especially on the seventh pitch, which has a sling and two bolts protecting the crux lower down, and another two bolts and a couple of slings for the remaining 30 meters...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgexjvcsjjqxV6zHEsnddRITsWjrOvoVf5t-FQzmu1bQbe7D7sJ0uJsjK2s6_icosp1cklqXEQG62y6WIiTVdUIpIQhP_clua3AEjN1G3j8B4Y_5biYjA4Uawyb-IlgZosfCaOT/s1600/guerre2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgexjvcsjjqxV6zHEsnddRITsWjrOvoVf5t-FQzmu1bQbe7D7sJ0uJsjK2s6_icosp1cklqXEQG62y6WIiTVdUIpIQhP_clua3AEjN1G3j8B4Y_5biYjA4Uawyb-IlgZosfCaOT/s1600/guerre2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i> Up the Jihad</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5hGb6WocZGJW7K1Q8kOIC1aCqFuAIaMWWF8M2TpLacJuQ8d8z7DtGEbfma6pPApQcVlzhDh38usAdHy0Kuykmyt4F3MTC7T-jj9rDgyfDCGY7ieKLqcyT2T7GvsscsRolz6jN/s1600/guerre4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5hGb6WocZGJW7K1Q8kOIC1aCqFuAIaMWWF8M2TpLacJuQ8d8z7DtGEbfma6pPApQcVlzhDh38usAdHy0Kuykmyt4F3MTC7T-jj9rDgyfDCGY7ieKLqcyT2T7GvsscsRolz6jN/s1600/guerre4.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i> Climb or go home pitch, Jihad</i></div>
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The route is gorgeous though, with hanging belays most of the way, and vertical to close to overhanging climbing. Only the rock quality could be better, although the last three 7a+/7b pitches have perfect rock and great protection, very welcome after the first 8 pitches involving more fear about the gear and rock. Colors and ambiance are hard to beat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN3NPr83D7fcdPQ_ejU13DJJZcefoLAwbQsmVJLiN0AVpI3nXpl3pHU_XhfTKTLogapRaxtSDYRjrwr9CHfrR_rQXWgwFKxRRGM_n90UMqc5JLa1hTkF3WqQqpez2NM2bEtpYa/s1600/guerre5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN3NPr83D7fcdPQ_ejU13DJJZcefoLAwbQsmVJLiN0AVpI3nXpl3pHU_XhfTKTLogapRaxtSDYRjrwr9CHfrR_rQXWgwFKxRRGM_n90UMqc5JLa1hTkF3WqQqpez2NM2bEtpYa/s1600/guerre5.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i> Up on Jihad</i></div>
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Overall, an interesting destination, with several things to offer for both culturally inspired travelers as well as sensation seekers. A lot of care is recommended though, as rock quality remains the biggest issue for the area, and especially for weak-headed climbers like me it is hard not to get scared on most routes, whatever the grade.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmiJdf4klKHFfiEYopAH8QNh1ozOIsLXm0W0Jz64SUEIlfE6ZOct8MJODcGl0JJO1_fHcToB_0RE9dRWoX5FwJOliCvQFZTjTV8X4UViVSM7MtLyud82-bFDePpu8t1HFmtCCy/s1600/rum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmiJdf4klKHFfiEYopAH8QNh1ozOIsLXm0W0Jz64SUEIlfE6ZOct8MJODcGl0JJO1_fHcToB_0RE9dRWoX5FwJOliCvQFZTjTV8X4UViVSM7MtLyud82-bFDePpu8t1HFmtCCy/s1600/rum.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Rainbow over the desert</i></div>
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uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-59676378193117229292014-03-23T10:29:00.000+01:002014-03-23T10:39:00.357+01:00Old Cities of the Middle East - Petra<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Another visit, another old city - this one not inhabited anymore, but still shining with its thousand colors in the morning and afternoon sun of the desert. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petra">Petra</a>, the most visited attraction of Jordan, is definitely on par with other old sights of human civilizations such as Machu Pichu, Angkor Wat, or the pyramids in Egypt.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifBjsIB1cfwCjeEyrJeXrzZr7BMG6odVFskS6Tg-r5XKoILURL2uM5Vpz-wa4KCLt9wNzEmBVPeJnEqIYfDh2LPrAd7O0Kh7Jys4-KkpWEnzBzs8PlKSEprABONa4IrWhZrR9h/s1600/pp5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifBjsIB1cfwCjeEyrJeXrzZr7BMG6odVFskS6Tg-r5XKoILURL2uM5Vpz-wa4KCLt9wNzEmBVPeJnEqIYfDh2LPrAd7O0Kh7Jys4-KkpWEnzBzs8PlKSEprABONa4IrWhZrR9h/s1600/pp5.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<i>View on al-Khazneh</i></div>
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The first sighting of Petra's treasures comes from the Al-Siq slot canyon, one of the old access roads to the city - obviously easily protected. Nabateans chose Petra as their capital for its strategic positioning, but also a rather hidden location in the labyrinth of the sandstone towers. Romans managed to conquer Petra, as well as Jerusalem, and the city started to decline since then. It was lost for many centuries in the sand until a Swiss traveler stumbled upon it again in 1812 and reminded the Europeans of its history.</div>
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<i>Al-Khazneh in all its beauty</i></div>
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Petra is an interesting melting pot of cultures and peoples, today as well as yesterday. Greek and Roman architecture had a clear influence on how the temples of Arab gods and the tombs of the gentry should look like. At the same time, the local multicolored sandstone set its own rules of shapes and carving. The city is also an example of ingenuity for water preservation, Nabateans creating an oasis in the desert by building countless canals and cisterns to store water from the rare rains in their mountains. We actually had the opportunity to see Petra wet and to walk through the Al-Siq half-flooded.</div>
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<i>Royal tombs (wet)</i></div>
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Today, a few Bedouins seem to live in the caves around Petra, offering donkey and camel rides to the tourists, as well as some tea to the tired ramblers. Usually subdued and dark, once in while it is possible to see a sign of the wild, a sign of power and pride in the corner of their eyes. But then, they lower their heads again, and say "welcome to Jordan".<br />
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Al-Siq</div>
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Standing at the top of the mountain near the Monastery, one can see all the way to the West Bank and Gasa, ancient prosperous port, deadly zone today. Only imagination can help visualize what has been, what might have been. Reality is different, the ruins are silent, and the children of Nabateans ramble the desert lands in poverty, Toyotas substituting the camels, tourists substituting the spice trade.<br />
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<i>The blue columbs of the Byzantine church</i></div>
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uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-15720305021601430642014-03-20T17:28:00.000+01:002014-03-20T17:33:55.954+01:00Old Cities of the Middle East - Jerusalem<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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When travelling through the Middle East, Jerusalem is an interesting experience to say the least. The highlights of Israel include great food and pleasant climate. We ate the best humus ever in the old city, as well as enjoyed incredible vegetarian meals in Tel Aviv. The low-lights include all the armed men and women walking the streets with big guns and few years of experience to justify the responsible use of these guns. That's the price to pay for "coming back home," but the societal impact of having every young member of the society spend three years in the army (two years for women) might not be only positive I imagine.</div>
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Coming back to Jerusalem, this famously disputed piece of land is curious to say the least. We entered the old town through the Damascus gate, and ended up in a big souk. A city divided into four quarters, Muslim, Christian, Jewish, and Armenian, is full of smells, merchants, tourists, and religious people. The old city has a very high concentration of religious buildings - churches intermingling with mosques and synagogues. Impressive how the co-habitation has been at all possible in such close proximity here for many years, sad on the other hand that the real peace has not been found by so many deeply religious people. Jerusalem is "too close to god" for its own good, as said our tour guide. </div>
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<i>Dome of the Rock</i></div>
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The most beautiful building in Jerusalem, also said to be one of the oldest buildings of the Muslim architecture still standing, is the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dome_of_the_Rock">Dome of the Rock</a>, above. It was the king <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herod_the_Great">Herod</a> (although of disputed Nabatean origin) who built the esplanade to improve Jewish Second Temple and make it worth the admiration of the whole region if not the entire Roman Empire. After the destruction of the Temple, all three religions (Jewish, Christian, Mulslim) kept calling their own different sacred places of the city, but especially the Temple Mount and the Olive Mount.<br />
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<i> Women in fron</i><i>t of the Dome of the Rock</i></div>
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The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Wall">Western Wall</a>, the base of Herod's esplanade for the Second Temple, has emerged over time as a sacred place for the Jewish people, where one can get closer to god, leave him a wish to realize, complain about the past, or dream about the future. The present is special though, with the left side of the Wall only accessible to men, and the right side reserved to women, supposedly based on the distinctions made in a synagogue. Apparently, it is better to talk to god in company of the same sex...</div>
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<i> The Western Wall</i></div>
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Today, since the last Intifada, the entrance of the Dome of the Rock has been prohibited to non-Muslims, another sad sign of the times, although living side by side, no agreement has been reached in this saintly city.</div>
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<i>Children playing ball</i></div>
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Still, children kick the ball - however they are already separated by the quarters, Muslims playing with their own, Jewish keeping to themselves. </div>
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The worst impression of Jerusalem we got while driving Eastwards to the Dead Sea through the West Bank. In the distance, one could barely see the Palestinian territories, separated by a wall, a religion, by economic sanctions. Remembering my earlier visit to Osventsim, the question remains - have we learnt anything? Will we ever learn? </div>
uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-81820016588132856162014-03-18T19:53:00.002+01:002014-03-18T19:54:00.161+01:00Desert times, once again...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-49694810914063100032014-03-03T21:34:00.003+01:002014-03-03T21:37:23.721+01:00The day I did not send Energia Positiva<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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There are projects, and sends, and more projects. And then there are the 'no sends.' Those are the painful experiences of almost doing it, of having it all click but for a small little detail, but for a small glitch in the system. I used to think it was about "being ready", having the route dialed, having done the homework, having put in the right amount of hours. But we learn, as I tell my students, times change, things evolve, and what if not human is it to learn from one's own experience and mistakes? Now it all appears much more random, much more about luck, a turn of the Fortuna wheal to the right (or left) direction, as Ignatius J. Reilly used to loudly prophesize. Plans are one thing, reality is something else entirely. </div>
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I almost had it - I worked on my overhanging climbing for some time, I put in my hours in Rodellar, I sent a 7b there last summer, and a 7b+ last autumn, and finally managed to do my first 7c in that style in Gran Boveda. Proud as it might be, I tried for a 7c+ in Bruixes - and what better line than Energia Positiva, the queen of the sector in my lingering eyes? It has everything, a jamming start, a no-hands rest, a hard dynamic boulder move, than overhanging jug-fest to another boulder problem, another rest, the final slab trick on a vertical tufa, another rest, and a final roof. I tried it some years ago, I remember spending almost a whole day to get up it the first time, with Ville patiently belaying, and me using the cheat stick for ever and ever to get to the anchor, all the time wondering about those long white spaces between the bolts. Could I connect the dots? Could I fly? Would I dare? </div>
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In those days my optimism was untainted by ugly experiences of injuries and my rebelling body refusing to follow strict orders. But many things resist us in life, even though we might want them very much, even though we might be ready to sacrifice everything, to give our best, we still can fail. And so we do.</div>
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And so it went with Energia, I tried it for some time, then winter passed, other projects came along, and I remained away, busy with other endeavors. My left shoulder got injured, cooling down my climbing ambitions for some time, but like a frog swimming in slowly heating milk, I kept pushing against the current, trying to change the laws of nature, trying to make my body work as planned, as ordered, as prescribed. It did so patiently for some time. One year after my injury I was back to the overhanging terrain, and I was ready for Energia Positiva once more.</div>
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I managed to do Occident first, to establish the 7c grade in Bruixes, and then moved on to the next line, Energia. Beautiful, it still was. Inspiring, it shone its light over the valley, all the way to France, driving me closer, calling my name, murmuring enchantments and offering promises of infinite glory. So I came, and I tried, and I tried again. First, I fell on the first boulder crux, and fell again. Then, I fell on the second crux, and fell again. Then, I went all the way to the tufa. I did not fall there - my vertical climbing skills took over, and the slab was done with quickly. But that last roof...oh, roofs. That's another sheet of my climbing history that remains to be filled. Roofs are definitely not for me. They are scary, they are big, they inspire only fear and hate. </div>
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I considered abandoning the route because of this roof. I spent several days trying the move on top rope because I could not dare do it on lead. My demons were hard at work. A roof, the cherry on the cake, at the meter 34 of a 35-meter route, what devil had the idea to put it there? What evil force made the holds so small? Probably the same one that made it also possible to jam my fingers in the crack below, to position myself well enough to go again with the right hand, to grab the second hold up while having a slight drop knee with my right foot on that precise spot, marked with black shoe rubber, longing witness of many passages of other small people like me. Then, go left with the left hand, get the crimp, breeze. Then move the right hand further right, get the left hand on the same hold (don't forget to keep the feet well below), then get the right foot on the right ticked hold, move the right hand right again, get the left foot up on the roof on friction, and do the last move. 7 moves in total from the last clip to the anchor. I repeated them in my head for several virtual sends, for several weeks in a row. I actually discovered the way to do the move several months into the project, as I used to get to the roof so tired I had no positive energy to even try it. But I did figure it out. There was nothing else left but do it.</div>
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I got to the roof three times. On my second arrival to the roof I found the fifth knee bar on the route. I knew: when I will have five knee-bars, it will be enough rests to be able to do the route. It was the trick on Occident, and it would be the same on Energia. </div>
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Then on Friday, when preparing to drive again to Bruixes, I woke up in the morning and started coughing. It was not an anodyne cough, but the cough sending forbearance signals for its master, the flu. And the flu came quick behind, in full force. I managed to get to the roof one more time, and then fell again. It was not to be. </div>
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Unfortunately, climbing during flu was not the best idea I ever had - and I paid the price. My right shoulder started to feel strange during this same period of time, and continued going haywire since then. It is time again to forget the overhangs, to forget some dreams, and start (again) finding new ones.</div>
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While Energia stays out there, I take it easy, try to learn from my own mistakes, try to remember what shoulder rehabilitation is about, and in the meantime go exploring my new backyard in France. Maybe new projects - maybe on vertical ground this time - await me there?</div>
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<i>A storm brewing over the Gorges du Tarn</i></div>
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<i>Beautiful rock of Gorges de la Dourbie</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp5QrZS1P9VPXivaMWMvKowiz949aFFmp7ZZr6hjDiMRO0-57CxwzGr9Nu8Upca8KFlsLj4bnsw-RxU9emzYnY1np0fVB_CeGmSHE1xWM5F_i5eJWNdFGYacgNjZHNs4YE4QdF/s1600/st+antonin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp5QrZS1P9VPXivaMWMvKowiz949aFFmp7ZZr6hjDiMRO0-57CxwzGr9Nu8Upca8KFlsLj4bnsw-RxU9emzYnY1np0fVB_CeGmSHE1xWM5F_i5eJWNdFGYacgNjZHNs4YE4QdF/s1600/st+antonin.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Castle in Gorges de l'Aveyron</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg53R8e9u3887UOEcoxHK_qANyVL-eoLdVtNQFikdRaym5ZOWjXnnZNeL5XU0h4JyXv_sRM7AS1DwZ7P1D31ZahzTrfmS06kqQ0ivcCc_G4FtJzBuCNQQ0tZIzGKgdS2ZdkVJnZ/s1600/st+gery.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg53R8e9u3887UOEcoxHK_qANyVL-eoLdVtNQFikdRaym5ZOWjXnnZNeL5XU0h4JyXv_sRM7AS1DwZ7P1D31ZahzTrfmS06kqQ0ivcCc_G4FtJzBuCNQQ0tZIzGKgdS2ZdkVJnZ/s1600/st+gery.jpg" height="204" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>And one more, a view on Gorges de Lot from St. Gery</i></div>
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All pictures courtesy of Jonas.</div>
uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-64355248418159454202013-11-30T15:47:00.000+01:002013-11-30T15:47:07.014+01:00Climbing in the sun<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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May the beauty of the world be with us, in reality, in dreams, in climbing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJX_VOLZunJDJcpABf8z7d5ChthmHHjtwqRkP4v9l5Ye1OOZYhJhLDGNVWAYg-_e85cXZGGt5KpeyILleiMM-as6uqr1ubkXRJrREs6vVofk1dP3_S8WAWOLCJBmSkrfaG_FPG/s1600/DSCN4526.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJX_VOLZunJDJcpABf8z7d5ChthmHHjtwqRkP4v9l5Ye1OOZYhJhLDGNVWAYg-_e85cXZGGt5KpeyILleiMM-as6uqr1ubkXRJrREs6vVofk1dP3_S8WAWOLCJBmSkrfaG_FPG/s320/DSCN4526.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj7d0iNCyDFYvkgeMHdmDPBf5EZ_8t6m0-4VOon4a671b97xFgh1K7lHKJA4EZgulROVsw2Ys86fS364vK8f9XGjGnkMvxOXvNezm0NNRSmysymBoMErd9QCIDo8yhNj6BRrN1/s1600/DSCN4530.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj7d0iNCyDFYvkgeMHdmDPBf5EZ_8t6m0-4VOon4a671b97xFgh1K7lHKJA4EZgulROVsw2Ys86fS364vK8f9XGjGnkMvxOXvNezm0NNRSmysymBoMErd9QCIDo8yhNj6BRrN1/s320/DSCN4530.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW0gPdaRS49AuyV7KP2LL-K5uKzQAIOpazWvwBd_wDfVeT1z6tJRwf-5XKtnM-pN6wGpSNflMg06EyzVHxRlgEVA7sVUHVYk05lO1Qu8gS0mnfio5SqMmFVOs3sc2w9nKqghkO/s1600/IMG_1297-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW0gPdaRS49AuyV7KP2LL-K5uKzQAIOpazWvwBd_wDfVeT1z6tJRwf-5XKtnM-pN6wGpSNflMg06EyzVHxRlgEVA7sVUHVYk05lO1Qu8gS0mnfio5SqMmFVOs3sc2w9nKqghkO/s320/IMG_1297-2.jpg" width="179" /></a></div>
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<i> Picture by Xavi</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2p4CyFcPUa8odqloLiMf0a1FcgopLZQsci0N6Ibt8cAxjecTOXKGzNvaTKj_u6Z3PSwoxgv7SJybmzxyi6d6s7FlfkGd53iaYcY-XB9abwMI-68krXFE31OEgMAqLMgHW3oeP/s1600/IMG_1308-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2p4CyFcPUa8odqloLiMf0a1FcgopLZQsci0N6Ibt8cAxjecTOXKGzNvaTKj_u6Z3PSwoxgv7SJybmzxyi6d6s7FlfkGd53iaYcY-XB9abwMI-68krXFE31OEgMAqLMgHW3oeP/s320/IMG_1308-2.jpg" width="213" /></a><i> </i></div>
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<i>Picture by Xavi</i></div>
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uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-58582582311278342032013-11-27T23:36:00.000+01:002013-11-27T23:36:59.350+01:00Climbing in Wyoming<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
An interesting video about climbing in Wyoming, Todd Skinner, and some positive community developments from climbing (for once).<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/78859472" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe></div>
uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-1682459393817022752013-11-17T17:31:00.001+01:002013-11-17T17:36:27.378+01:00Colors change in Rodellar<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir079DksjFOl5W8c9E8ahaqxEVejvHB0Hx3ptaTPcbdK5jF5Q_R5W6VY3n8NAjCwOLlu8hVynnkAFDP2WqGvP0s5YpKP5bkutMcfnS8B8qP-_GyVr7-MfiyYKhPzC4gmVVF4sl/s1600/DSCN4497.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir079DksjFOl5W8c9E8ahaqxEVejvHB0Hx3ptaTPcbdK5jF5Q_R5W6VY3n8NAjCwOLlu8hVynnkAFDP2WqGvP0s5YpKP5bkutMcfnS8B8qP-_GyVr7-MfiyYKhPzC4gmVVF4sl/s320/DSCN4497.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXjogdS0lGjWWlsKqViwnI64E0_CzXkznEfJVHZe8Q98TtpUHBH9zfBHCtjxwnhQYi3DGTQenyQipRHt-ipuPUjJYFvX_hs840Xlt0zoLF8qTcqDKoueaMnrk32f3t1avND5_C/s1600/DSCN4508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXjogdS0lGjWWlsKqViwnI64E0_CzXkznEfJVHZe8Q98TtpUHBH9zfBHCtjxwnhQYi3DGTQenyQipRHt-ipuPUjJYFvX_hs840Xlt0zoLF8qTcqDKoueaMnrk32f3t1avND5_C/s320/DSCN4508.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Unknown on Botanics, Ventanas</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3EvXCOj1sKvXBMEE7bGg2mrt0kqFDNNqN5tq23TDqtVMxV1ZnO9FQNvaG5luGVsSM3goc5zVbj458hys1qq52rugb4wQ1UVHpGet-bqWL0mbaiwy2UjEBBztoySAY4t1oeoVA/s1600/DSCN4521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3EvXCOj1sKvXBMEE7bGg2mrt0kqFDNNqN5tq23TDqtVMxV1ZnO9FQNvaG5luGVsSM3goc5zVbj458hys1qq52rugb4wQ1UVHpGet-bqWL0mbaiwy2UjEBBztoySAY4t1oeoVA/s320/DSCN4521.JPG" width="219" /></a></div>
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<i>Unknown climber on Amelie, Gran Boveda</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj03rvU_sEhHn2P1njLV8k_3CsZL1vJVatEOiTQVqGrc5dI83eq5xTaSYKINEn-sWx9iTQLPWs2Sz7F2WFZzCcIrxEm5f9LSXbI6XInrEiNs70bthMz6wHaBC5mJh5hnUkO573h/s1600/DSCN4523.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj03rvU_sEhHn2P1njLV8k_3CsZL1vJVatEOiTQVqGrc5dI83eq5xTaSYKINEn-sWx9iTQLPWs2Sz7F2WFZzCcIrxEm5f9LSXbI6XInrEiNs70bthMz6wHaBC5mJh5hnUkO573h/s320/DSCN4523.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<i style="text-align: center;"> Unknown climber on Amelie, Gran Boveda</i></div>
uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-30233096649035105382013-10-28T20:22:00.002+01:002013-10-28T20:22:49.102+01:00Rodellar times<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/56416932" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/56416932">Ola Taistra on Cosi Fan Tutte 8c+</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user15513156">Jason</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div>
uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-34860379557740528282013-09-22T23:24:00.002+02:002013-09-22T23:24:23.448+02:00Climbing in France<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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New country, old sport. Or maybe not so new country either. Back into the future, back to France, square "0", where I started almost fifteen years ago, where I attempt to continue the journey. Fortunately, rock is abundant in the vicinity to keep me company.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRemoET_8TLO_RwvwHcHXpbYI5bvJqlaMPOQ6c2yrWYG6BqOiK4TCdfl4T4JNequJq1HQPehArS-sEsq0OTk5WPTm9qhC8d5aeZ_Cj0YPNddoAieqeAFXtZthaSE08YCHMwBX9/s1600/DSCN4351.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRemoET_8TLO_RwvwHcHXpbYI5bvJqlaMPOQ6c2yrWYG6BqOiK4TCdfl4T4JNequJq1HQPehArS-sEsq0OTk5WPTm9qhC8d5aeZ_Cj0YPNddoAieqeAFXtZthaSE08YCHMwBX9/s320/DSCN4351.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i> Beautiful landscape in Gorges de la Cesse</i></div>
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One of my first visits in my new homeland was to the incredibly beautiful Gorges de la Cesse. Little known outside the local enthusiast circle, the place has an old topo, and kilometers of high-quality routes, to climb and discover.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG72OVgt5f_ntYvPHCaqLSYQpfOLqUtSU87InSnD3qAn5jEfVwsQve4Me_9j7eIXHhPX2c-i3qlg3ew94CEZWIvnN0vwU3jQwg4-pDcsIfGobv8xXC1p7wDAw55EHZkHGGDbS8/s1600/DSCN4395.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG72OVgt5f_ntYvPHCaqLSYQpfOLqUtSU87InSnD3qAn5jEfVwsQve4Me_9j7eIXHhPX2c-i3qlg3ew94CEZWIvnN0vwU3jQwg4-pDcsIfGobv8xXC1p7wDAw55EHZkHGGDbS8/s320/DSCN4395.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
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<i> Laurent up a 7b in Gorges de la Cesse</i></div>
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Next stop - another Gorges, de l'Aveyron this time. Another huge climbing area I've never heard of before, with at least 300-400 routes, from vertical slabs where feet are hard to trust or find, to unending tufas and bouldery overhangs. More routes to try out and enjoy, more friends to climb with.<br />
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<i>Mathieu on a 7c in Couyrac, Gorges de l'Aveyron</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD_rjn-zRymO0kY6fpdzLOCVBIKjyc_JemqSWja9cXAo6xet8w6hN4eWhiRMOmMMMX3jm299Z8RgbjNHmYxKh-mKLFhwklB5WFBwKP6eAYDgSZumdnXhfE5uu-mmA6nyzBEbC_/s1600/DSCN4468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD_rjn-zRymO0kY6fpdzLOCVBIKjyc_JemqSWja9cXAo6xet8w6hN4eWhiRMOmMMMX3jm299Z8RgbjNHmYxKh-mKLFhwklB5WFBwKP6eAYDgSZumdnXhfE5uu-mmA6nyzBEbC_/s320/DSCN4468.JPG" width="245" /></a></div>
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<i>Boudjemaa on a 7b+ in Couyrac, Gorges de l'Aveyron</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGmK4j6uCX9ZJnVqQ0G6nWvx1CujoIFVQCG08LvsDzZV0nMH1EiXd1zT5m_LqZ8jSgp5rGYS6qgPJphriRFjvT81cZx8gMNotIxhxsW5YOiMgpu-IMdYoGaYR3c71Y-Ww0dCHe/s1600/DSCN4488.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGmK4j6uCX9ZJnVqQ0G6nWvx1CujoIFVQCG08LvsDzZV0nMH1EiXd1zT5m_LqZ8jSgp5rGYS6qgPJphriRFjvT81cZx8gMNotIxhxsW5YOiMgpu-IMdYoGaYR3c71Y-Ww0dCHe/s320/DSCN4488.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>St. Antonin village in the evening sun</i></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/p-tioIcgcNk?list=PL1DC4BB9370A1BE60" width="560"></iframe></div>
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uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-5046321897289707952013-09-20T17:58:00.002+02:002013-09-20T17:58:40.492+02:00Fred Beckey in the Dolomites<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I almost met Beckey in 2005, when road-tripping in Red Rocks. He never showed up for that week-end, and instead I listened to some more stories about him during our long nights in the desert, eyeing the lights of Las Vegas somewhere far away out there. He was already old then. He is older today. <br />
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I wonder how many years he has been climbing and how many partners/generations he has seen go by? With my 10 years of climbing anniversary this year, I start noticing all these youngsters, wide-eyed, impressed, and impressive, discovering the beauty of the sport. Time flies, passions remain. To you, Beckey!<br />
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uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-38816874908071908092013-09-16T23:31:00.002+02:002013-09-16T23:31:36.570+02:00Fantastic flying books<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-73808334680624978132013-09-16T22:51:00.002+02:002013-09-16T22:51:23.727+02:00Finishing projects and moving on<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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And it has come to pass: another project is sent, accomplished, finished: a dissertation has been defended, a school has been changed, a city and a country abandoned, exchanged, switched, and forgotten. Time to move on, time to change, time to go. I celebrated, together with Catalunya, my own accomplishments. With confidence and eagerness, I defended my dissertation, the culminating result of the past five years of hard work, perspiration, and learning. </div>
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I dedicated my dissertation to my parents, who opened the doors to education and otherwise inspire me continuously by their courage and commitment to a better life. I hope I have made them proud, at least for a short moment, at least I have tried my best.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigERuebdeBAOiDnIlRGfCg4aQJxdmlvZCOOVjdRm3lpTqvCJzIcljDlcOYhMzAnZsjzjEel4atrqOamFQ_NkP3fDjuPA6pYh4nAvD9CTVyhl46kxtIulIsq9ztGn8Iw53jh4IM/s1600/photo+32.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigERuebdeBAOiDnIlRGfCg4aQJxdmlvZCOOVjdRm3lpTqvCJzIcljDlcOYhMzAnZsjzjEel4atrqOamFQ_NkP3fDjuPA6pYh4nAvD9CTVyhl46kxtIulIsq9ztGn8Iw53jh4IM/s320/photo+32.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<i>Defending my dissertation</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXtfHt8Fy4HPl9WzNdG0kqIlIxZH38yzS8AODmfu2CnLQUMHYiIqSUZR97HMSTUB0-gdDr5zAQdAROwJVWHQzIZOH6sEIGpVDDehO_Hzro-QECUEFt7u-x21WqnBSIoDKI0s3e/s1600/photo+22.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXtfHt8Fy4HPl9WzNdG0kqIlIxZH38yzS8AODmfu2CnLQUMHYiIqSUZR97HMSTUB0-gdDr5zAQdAROwJVWHQzIZOH6sEIGpVDDehO_Hzro-QECUEFt7u-x21WqnBSIoDKI0s3e/s320/photo+22.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i> Receiving last comments from the thesis committee</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjll1nun2EjiZ6NVAHOOWdjovq2lerbwisAIcUTCC0WfrMB2T-5YGwKvNflcsBBTehM7O1BfloBIYUNHQPOlMPXoarUvTOikBNgIB8BQWcH1sMDOzUNcKfvBHb_32AwgiTLL6NJ/s1600/11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjll1nun2EjiZ6NVAHOOWdjovq2lerbwisAIcUTCC0WfrMB2T-5YGwKvNflcsBBTehM7O1BfloBIYUNHQPOlMPXoarUvTOikBNgIB8BQWcH1sMDOzUNcKfvBHb_32AwgiTLL6NJ/s320/11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Done: please, call me Doctor!</i></div>
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Running in parallel to my own life events, Catalunya has been voicing its discontent, defending its own statements and desires, louder again during this ironic and iconic day of September 11th, the holiday in the province, celebrating defeat in 1714 of the last Catalan troops by the Spaniards. </div>
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<i> Human chain in Barcelona</i></div>
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Catalans celebrated by joining hands across the shores of their beautiful homeland, in a movement that reminded me of Ukraine and Baltic states that had their own moment of human chains in the beginning of the 1990s. During those times, people were also full of enthusiasm and optimism in those far-away lands. Some moved west-ward, some...stagnated and turned around in a different direction. Apparently, I was also dragged to the streets by my parents, although I barely remember anything. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiavRgbY0_b62murT0SwolbHHFhlymqkzrpZRpSximIjFhjjSgcF_mHlXhrouPYSsM-qQRNfU9F_94pwd3KpYAQbUko0Nc_LIYFd1YAYidkOEzHMLObn3bTZ8GjLIQR4vW2oh-6/s1600/photo+8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiavRgbY0_b62murT0SwolbHHFhlymqkzrpZRpSximIjFhjjSgcF_mHlXhrouPYSsM-qQRNfU9F_94pwd3KpYAQbUko0Nc_LIYFd1YAYidkOEzHMLObn3bTZ8GjLIQR4vW2oh-6/s320/photo+8.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>And the big-picture view....</i></div>
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Good? Bad? Flag-waving disturbs me more than anything else, although I do sympathize with this land that has opened its arms and soul to me for a fleeting moment. Thank you for your generosity, Catalunya, and farewell.</div>
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<i>Pictures by my mother.</i></div>
uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-46951646767551997922013-08-08T03:15:00.000+02:002013-08-08T03:15:57.098+02:00Petzl Argentina Rock Trip Movie<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
After the more controversial <a href="http://uasunflower.blogspot.com/2012/05/petzl-in-china.html">China trip</a>, Petzl team goes to Argentina, with another good movie.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/71722486?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&color=ff9933" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/71722486">Petzl RocTrip Argentina 2012 [EN] The official movie</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/petzl">Petzl-sport</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div>
uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-70576296557877103102013-08-06T20:48:00.003+02:002013-08-06T20:55:09.875+02:00Unicorns and other creatures<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>Part of the Cloisters Unicorn tapestry</i></div>
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While reading the classic <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_King_of_Elfland's_Daughter">King of Elfland's Daugher</a>, by Lord Dunsany, I came across the<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unicorn"> unicorn</a>, again. It figured prominently before (or rather after) in Neil Geiman's <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stardust_(novel)">Stardust</a>, and got me interested in the subject. That is why, while in NYC, I decided to go back to the<a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/visit/visit-the-cloisters/"> Cloisters </a>museum and check out their famous tapestry as well as the current unicorn exhibit all over again. <br />
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It was interesting to learn that the horns of the unicorns became very popular relics during the Middle Ages for kings and churches to keep. They were actually the tusks of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Narwhal">narwhals</a>, arctic whales not familiar to the Europeans then. These tusks grew from 1.5 to 3 meters in length and served as the artifacts justifying the unicorn legend over the years. In medieval times, believed to come from the unicorns, the tusks were said to cure poison and melancholia, and provided a great trading opportunity for Vikings, that bought them from Inuits, and sold them to crazed European monarchs for a small fortune.<br />
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Cloisters, a beautiful part of the Metropolitan museum in New York, hosts the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Hunt_of_the_Unicorn">Unicorn tapestries</a>, the gift of John Rockefeller. These are seven tapestries telling a surreal story of the hunt for the unicorn by adrenaline-filled hunters - a vivid reminder of the scenes from the Lord Dunsany's novel. Although mentioned by Greeks, Jews, and Arabs, Christians have been interpreting unicorn as a symbol for Christ's suffering, and that is one of the possible allegories for this particular tapestry. An enchanting visit!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGG5In_fsaw7BEjf_j-fuKpiVrihwgPONrPvqOLhITq0wj-G0JMhhujR_rabnY3GwHJh-8q36WwaILXbRLYKnykt_k7X6n1sMeBQW9V4TLXUyCHchA7Ik2V-gzxXQ_7u_t90qT/s1600/DSCN4298.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGG5In_fsaw7BEjf_j-fuKpiVrihwgPONrPvqOLhITq0wj-G0JMhhujR_rabnY3GwHJh-8q36WwaILXbRLYKnykt_k7X6n1sMeBQW9V4TLXUyCHchA7Ik2V-gzxXQ_7u_t90qT/s320/DSCN4298.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Enjoying the "art minute" at the Cloisters</i></div>
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uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-68908058855847552992013-08-02T12:48:00.001+02:002013-08-02T14:08:05.366+02:00Lofoten Adventures<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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This year's visit to the North lands of this planet included sightseeing of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lofoten">Lofoten Islands</a> after some climbing in <a href="http://uasunflower.blogspot.se/2013/07/summer-in-north.html">Sweden</a>. I first heard of the Magic Islands when living on the East coast in the US, when listening to the folk stories about various adventures of the local Ed Webster, who wrote the first English-speaking guidebook for the area and spent a couple of summers exploring the Northern granite.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TJXQdvuO6oCP7e8_uKfy90WmuJk2ThUVC0KVX9-2U43N2B-sdBiHAsYycNMjcm-QaLdBjTIpLMnSl_ETA09Q5x5hN_xUefqMfqNQRuWlQwjMO12FtGaSFo879POZ3RM_qMck/s1600/996885_10151549088001603_1246959226_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TJXQdvuO6oCP7e8_uKfy90WmuJk2ThUVC0KVX9-2U43N2B-sdBiHAsYycNMjcm-QaLdBjTIpLMnSl_ETA09Q5x5hN_xUefqMfqNQRuWlQwjMO12FtGaSFo879POZ3RM_qMck/s320/996885_10151549088001603_1246959226_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Moskenesøya island</i></div>
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After a long and rainy drive (road connects the islands to the mainland through several tunnels, achievement of Norwegian public investments), our first stop was in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henningsv%C3%A6r">Henningsvær</a>, a small fishing village at the end of the world. Although it was raining cats and dogs, the village still preserved its charm, drawing unabashed on the climber population due to the climbing school and shop being located in its center. We had some coffee and ate the very expensive <a href="http://www.kidspot.com.au/best-recipes/Cakes-and-Baking+20/Norwegian-cinnamon-buns-recipe+3003.htm">cinnamon buns</a>, one of the favorite desserts in Scandinavia, that helped keep our spirits up that first rainy and cold day.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_S4ptCcr2J-Yr6pwYcEIR53AvshymT9z_rSAfBS51iDWnQAf81PdZlzQHwX506bKotzu1CGiG9SGZW-Y78ozDNXh1WfeGPZxRTYEB2BWqUMfQCkAAvTFJ1CZO1lgUBC5pk3dK/s1600/1000507_10151548456756603_1195275699_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_S4ptCcr2J-Yr6pwYcEIR53AvshymT9z_rSAfBS51iDWnQAf81PdZlzQHwX506bKotzu1CGiG9SGZW-Y78ozDNXh1WfeGPZxRTYEB2BWqUMfQCkAAvTFJ1CZO1lgUBC5pk3dK/s320/1000507_10151548456756603_1195275699_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Rainbow after the rain, on the way to <span style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 19.18402862548828px;">Henningsvær</span></i></div>
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<i>View on Lillemola island from <span style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19.1875px;">Henningsvær</span></i></div>
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<i>Sunset over <span style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19.1875px;">Henningsvær bridge</span></span></i></div>
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When wondering through Henningsvær, and after admiring the old Volvo sports car (supposedly the proud property of the climbing shop owner), we came upon <a href="http://www.pobel.no/">Pobel</a>'s graffiti on one of the walls. Not much is known about this shadow-painter, except that <a href="http://iliketowastemytime.com/2012/10/10/clever-graffiti-shadow-artist-p-bel-20-pics">he lives in Norway</a>, and his name translates to "hooligan", or part of the plebs. Depicting fishermen seems like one of his favorite themes:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijq3XjFcJrY5_WMUaSHu2Qy3hTDtAox2SCS7kGgdeeGbO6qCoBpyORxvogGZkCs2vQMQI7pb_VzPvIy5ePXzWgiZ7VYsde_kxfDrsXNJr5o6mFUawQ8b5vXEZ5YKae6-JQGTCD/s1600/DSCN4183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijq3XjFcJrY5_WMUaSHu2Qy3hTDtAox2SCS7kGgdeeGbO6qCoBpyORxvogGZkCs2vQMQI7pb_VzPvIy5ePXzWgiZ7VYsde_kxfDrsXNJr5o6mFUawQ8b5vXEZ5YKae6-JQGTCD/s320/DSCN4183.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Pobel, "In cod we trust", in </i><i><span style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19.1875px;">Henningsvær </span></i></div>
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Despite the hopeless downpour on the first day, the weather cleared up and we started climbing the day after. Although the horror stories of rain on Lofoten I have heard have been many over the years, we were very lucky to hit a high pressure system for over a week during our stay. We used the days well on the beautiful granite of the islands, starting with the classic West Pillar on the Priest:<br />
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<i>Leading up on the Priest, West Pillar</i></div>
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We continued with more climbing on the Priest, and around Henningsvær, exploring the Spring Wall in particular. There, Jonas tried the very hard 7+ finish variation to Blod eller gul, and I enjoyed very much the Gaukerisset crack.<br />
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<i>Jonas following the incredible 3d pitch of the Crusade up the Priest</i></div>
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After the tame Priest experiences we decided to go West, towards the less explored territories of the <span style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moskenes%C3%B8ya">Moskenesøya island</a>. It is one of the least developed islands in the archipelago, where several inland villages can only be reached by boat. It is famous for its <a href="http://www.68north.com/outdoors/travel-lofotens-3-best-beaches/">Bunes Beach</a>, that can only be accessed with a 40-minute hike after taking the ferry to Vinstad from Reine, and is one of the more scenic Norway beaches accessible only by foot.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUW7SaC5KHMlzg2-xxmemtU66vSB4DJtnzHf7NEwicGoXuNdx4Gx6YfywE4F6GFH9f60k7f6chgxXc0vPCq_Aayyr9Gw9yZE_xQkdexAuLv7qW97V0ADwd7BHse-FcsoKglOdg/s1600/DSCN4206.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUW7SaC5KHMlzg2-xxmemtU66vSB4DJtnzHf7NEwicGoXuNdx4Gx6YfywE4F6GFH9f60k7f6chgxXc0vPCq_Aayyr9Gw9yZE_xQkdexAuLv7qW97V0ADwd7BHse-FcsoKglOdg/s320/DSCN4206.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i> Departing ferry from Reine to Vinstad.</i></div>
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Unfortunately, we never reached the actual beach despite all the fame and excitement about it. On the way to the beach we decided to climb a nice-looking wall towering above Vinstad, with one known route reported in the 2010 update to the Lofoten guidebook. However, after a longish approach (definitely not 30 minutes...), the first pitch spooked us with its water and grass enough to renounce on the rest and turn back. On the way down the slope, my leg slid through some rabbit hole, and although I did not disappear under the earth following the white rabbit, my ankle decided to twist itself in a painful way as a punishment for all my whining about carrying the heavy backpack. After finishing the even less pleasant descent, we decided to camp there and then, and not continue the exploration of the island further.</div>
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Continuing in the same vein, we woke up at 3:45 am the following night, when Jonas suddenly realized that he did not hear the creek anymore. It took his sleepy brain a couple of seconds to realize that the creek was not flowing downwards toward the ocean anymore...because we were in the ocean! Fortuna has struck again, as Ignatius J. Reilly would repeatedly say, and the high tide got the best of us and our gear. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxTG3UQJWtDlY4EEqVr3NCO0CtxeNzbtfZp33897ONqnsdk5eXO1DrwUP74mC6ovYjEShxvzC80edXaXHGcKHqsdsqob0VkWPp1yH9wJQbVzQv_sKijNCgEkq_9bfdfiRbTajM/s1600/DSCN4210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxTG3UQJWtDlY4EEqVr3NCO0CtxeNzbtfZp33897ONqnsdk5eXO1DrwUP74mC6ovYjEShxvzC80edXaXHGcKHqsdsqob0VkWPp1yH9wJQbVzQv_sKijNCgEkq_9bfdfiRbTajM/s320/DSCN4210.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Ocean at our door.</i></div>
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After this adventure, we decided the island was cursed and did not wish to push our luck further there. After a cold and wet morning spent drying out gear, washing camera and cams in the fresh-water creek, and praying for the electronics to start working again, we turned around, and came back to the more known lands around <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f4/Svolvaer.ogg">Svolvær</a>, going to the Paradiset area for some single-pitch fun, Jonas climbing the classic Butter Arms, and me trying out the Svenske Dihedral and the Dosethrisset crack. Apparently, the lines opened by <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hans_Christian_Doseth">Hans Cristian Doseth</a> have a seal of quality upon them, as he was one of the best Norwegian climbers of his time, with a very good eye for impressive cracks. He died in 1984 on the rappels after establishing the Norwegian Buttress, first route up the East Buttress of the Trango Tower.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1PcdcCIiLoviEIvpIcXd0gP12vyl82gnSyGr6AN6vLG6Xlsd98c1f2k75CQTl4q5k6qkTb1YpxuRlqQNtHIZBjnUaMdueFtXfYZCxaX9fi1ZDXI6ES0rwF02JCVv_O5aXG0p9/s1600/DSCN4221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1PcdcCIiLoviEIvpIcXd0gP12vyl82gnSyGr6AN6vLG6Xlsd98c1f2k75CQTl4q5k6qkTb1YpxuRlqQNtHIZBjnUaMdueFtXfYZCxaX9fi1ZDXI6ES0rwF02JCVv_O5aXG0p9/s320/DSCN4221.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Paradiset view towards the open sea</i></div>
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We finished our stay with a long day first trying the Ormen Lange route on Kallebukta, then climbing the very recommendable Pan route on Geitvika buttress, and then finishing with Running for Rasmus on Store Festvag.<br />
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<i><b>Logistics tips for Lofoten</b></i><br />
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Norway is an expensive country, thus usually climbers are advised to come prepared - i.e. bringing the full provision of food from the less expensive neighboring Sweden is a good idea. It is possible to camp at several places on the islands free, the rule in Northern Norway being that you can put up your tent anywhere, as long as it is not visible from the nearest house. There are paid showers at the climbing school and the paid campgrounds. Wifi is scarce, it is available free at the library at Svolvær.<br />
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The weather is the biggest challenge and unknown, as it can rain for several weeks in a row, although high pressure systems are not unheard of, and those can last for a week or two, with full sunshine and t-shirt climbing on the menu.<br />
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Climbing is mainly trad climbing on granite cracks, similar for instance to Chamonix, although not much red granite is around. There are a couple of spots with sport climbing and bouldering, but those as a rule are not the main objectives for climbers on the islands. There are several quality routes in the guidebook, although there is a certain lack of routes in the higher grades (7b and higher). The original Rockfax guidebook contains several errors, somewhat corrected by the 2010 supplement. Especially beta about gear is not totally correct, although sometimes even the lines are drawn wrong...or even drawn on the wrong mountain (!). There is a folder with the new route updates in the climbing bar in Henningsvær, although it is rather thin given the expense of rock available.<br />
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There still seems to be an abundance of possibilities for new routes - although usually a long approach might be involved. Many routes might stay wet even after several days of sunshine, especially if overhanging cracks are involved.<br />
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<i>Most pictures by Jonas.</i></div>
uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35237587.post-27908317487740165452013-07-18T12:47:00.001+02:002013-07-18T12:51:28.151+02:00Summer in the North<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After experiencing the Spanish heat for several weeks and complaining about humidity, we have moved North, and now complain about cold and rain instead. Northern Sweden is very different from the South indeed, it has its own beauty and personality. Water (which unfortunately also means mosquitoes) and trees are abundant, making the scenery beautiful and reflective. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_RfQZHRIYT9l3lzGNBXZpHOBoU0PqVcDpGH6tzydu3Z_CHm9dZQd7idKErdHXBC4AGyMWsX-gwwIjtyogE2TbzBwu3E0aKI26oqcOZo0KDGWSanijQWLH0uFLfdTPvzli97i4/s1600/taiga.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_RfQZHRIYT9l3lzGNBXZpHOBoU0PqVcDpGH6tzydu3Z_CHm9dZQd7idKErdHXBC4AGyMWsX-gwwIjtyogE2TbzBwu3E0aKI26oqcOZo0KDGWSanijQWLH0uFLfdTPvzli97i4/s400/taiga.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Slow sunset over the Golf of Bothnia, picture by Jonas</i></div>
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There is also climbing in <a href="http://www.borrbult.nu/">Northern Sweden</a>, although not so well-known as the rock in neighboring Norway. As Jonas works on the new version of the guidebook for the area, we visited several crags around Lulea, such as the famous Niemisel, claimed to be one of the best sport climbing crags around here, especially for the climbers getting into the 8th grade, visited by both Swedes and Finns of the North.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi00bM3wUcx9L4Ibmy2Zy6wDDgd1C1iW1bc8JWag2U9vWzlJHZLOSo8cZg8CF38_xVoJ261vJIq_vcJc3SQtMsdFpxAm9hkA-IFW2VOlq2qXGJP0Ahgfp0dgzwErI8vf42AQNSK/s1600/DSCN4100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi00bM3wUcx9L4Ibmy2Zy6wDDgd1C1iW1bc8JWag2U9vWzlJHZLOSo8cZg8CF38_xVoJ261vJIq_vcJc3SQtMsdFpxAm9hkA-IFW2VOlq2qXGJP0Ahgfp0dgzwErI8vf42AQNSK/s320/DSCN4100.JPG" width="238" /></a></div>
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<i> Jonas pulling hard in Niemisel</i></div>
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I found Niemisel rather hard, slopy, and overhanging, not to mention wet, for the first visit. It is another of those places one needs to get used to, requiring patience and motivation to stick to it. Lacking both for the moment, I enjoyed the sunshine and took some pictures instead.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnmrqO_ZAhm7WlrE2x5CTB0qHxa7KGyY_MoLKe71CbVtIjkR5NvLlk9UX9SL5nyc3-e1ZcgTpGZcBdvwrkiJEnZ3G_n23iS9JvEdhS9GoxuEl3W747xkUjq0FDmXRV6Q9fFJN3/s1600/DSCN4128.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnmrqO_ZAhm7WlrE2x5CTB0qHxa7KGyY_MoLKe71CbVtIjkR5NvLlk9UX9SL5nyc3-e1ZcgTpGZcBdvwrkiJEnZ3G_n23iS9JvEdhS9GoxuEl3W747xkUjq0FDmXRV6Q9fFJN3/s320/DSCN4128.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>A different Jonas enjoying summer climbing in the North</i></div>
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While in Sweden, I was treated to the classic of the Northern Swedish cuisine, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surstr%C3%B6mming">Surstromming</a>. It is fermented - or rotten - herring, that smells very very bad when the can is opened. Several stories circulate about unknowing foreigners opening the can and being more than surprised by the unpleasant result. The taste of the rotten fish is mainly salt, and having practiced with French cheeses before, I successfully passed the exam and enjoyed this special food.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX3jlOb0bYDh69dLGeTFhFsTS2eZkBUHXcSwmEFHatYe5aO0_AfBEYeEug9QbFfd5vRgaXs-nh09BI6MON5_8Tbnz7nqL9lYgqeL1XNDqwpSe-ABNQ4aButQJZ2bRxDPY9f0bx/s1600/surstromming+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX3jlOb0bYDh69dLGeTFhFsTS2eZkBUHXcSwmEFHatYe5aO0_AfBEYeEug9QbFfd5vRgaXs-nh09BI6MON5_8Tbnz7nqL9lYgqeL1XNDqwpSe-ABNQ4aButQJZ2bRxDPY9f0bx/s320/surstromming+3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Rotten herring, a "delicacy" of sorts, picture by Jonas</i></div>
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More to come about Northern climbing, hopefully in Norway, if the rain lets us, soon.</div>
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uasunflowerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17072368684135587983noreply@blogger.com0