Sunday, June 28, 2009


This w-end we spent in Collegats, another climbing area from the countless list of the climbing options available in Cataluna. Collegats is probably better known for its barrancos (canyons) - some info on the area and camping here. One of the strange places there could probably have been the inspiration to Gaudi's Nativity portal of the Sagrada Familia - it is called Argenteria Waterfall, maybe because of how it looks during winter, and it does look very strange indeed (not my picture):

We, however, as usual, were there for the climbing, and climb we did - two very good, although very different routes. The first one, Sang de Crack (topo here, although pretty sandbagged i would say...), was a semi-equipped wonder, with a first pitch that got my head and spirits down, and the continuation very enjoyable for each single pitch, even the last, one-move 5 wonder at the top, where I managed to use 3 cams to protect one move...Below is myself with full rack, the wall to be climbed is behind:

The cecond route was Passatge de l'Impossible, on the lower wall (center right wall way low near the river in the overview picture above, taken from the top of the Sang de Crack), very stunning location. The approach to the wall itself requires a tyrolian traverse over the river(set up by the canyon guides for their clients I suppose) - Cathy showing me how it's done below:

The tyrolian starts the adrenaline rush, and the climb continues in the same spirit. We first got off route with the first pitch, supposedly five. After aiding on each single bolt, tying off a tree and getting to a roof, I finally came to the pragmatic conlusion it could not in any world, even the catalan one, be a five, and successfully bailed. After starting the right pitch we enjoyed ourselves very much, and became the added attraction for the crowds swimming out of the Inferno canyon. The route surprised us by the difficulty, the pitches are definitely a big sandbag at 6a. The sun also got to us as our timing, as usual, was off the wall (double the guidebook's estimate). But we did summit, rapped, and finally bathed in the river :). Good w-end, off to train for more!

Here is Cathy leading off the aid pitch (supposedly 8a free), the opposite conglomerate side of the canyon as a background, with the Tanger route there in the skyline:


Buji said...

Congratulations in this weekend of discoveries and for these good routes!

They are curious and nice rocky formations of the Estret de Collegats.

Some of them say that the climbing of collegats resembles Riglos, for the big "bolos"..


TRanki said...

Hi J.

Good performance!

see you, don't take the cams out of the bag, tomorrow we will use them ( not much I hope).

See you