Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Fading memories

While listening to the sound of rain and Dylan's cup of coffee, alone as usual at my place, a thought to the past, that already seems so strange and incredible.  While the haulbag lies dying in my closet.  One day, I have to come back to at least free the Astroman...one day, back to the vertical realities, lots of air below, the only way being up.  Dirtbagging used to be fun, and bears the only constraint on the mind flow. 

Your breath is sweet
Your eyes are like two jewels in the sky
Your back is straight your hair is smooth
On the pillow where you lie
But I don't sense affection
No gratitude or love
Your loyalty is not to me
But to the stars above

One more cup of coffee for the road
One more cup of coffee 'fore I go.
To the valley below.

Thursday, October 07, 2010

Sunday, October 03, 2010


Another w-end, another sector.  This time it was time for Riugreixer, a small sector above Baga, in the region of Berga.  The best routes are in the welcome shadow in the afternoon, on the East face.  Below Pau on Rinovirus, a very long, good 7a that already makes the trip worthwhilie:

Again, I had to confront my fears of overhang climbing - and again, the fears have not gone away.  Flying and falling is as scary as before despite all the hard work and fly miles in Mowgli, Vianant, Alt Urgell...Climbing life is long and hard, at least for my little head.  Thus, I failed to even toprope Magic Boulevard, and decided to go for easier objectives, the Violencia couple on the left.  Violencia Domestica is a very good (and again long) 7a+, with crux in the second part.  Violencia de Genere is more serious, hard 7b.  I failed on that one too, below trying to confront the fears to fly:

The Medusa-woman, with all vertical works contraptions of long slings that do not substitute ever for a good head...May the red be the color of my shame...

And after the move...one day maybe I will learn to climb and fly...but it has not come yet.