Monday, September 21, 2009


The latest jewel climbing area in less than 1h driving from Barcelona that i have been obsessed with these days is close to Aiguafreda, and is called Grau dels Matxos. It has been recently developed and the work is still in progress. The rock is sandstone - just what was missing in the conglomerate/limestone/granite mix we already have at our disposal. All this rock probably has something to do with my becoming more and more of a focused sport climber - maybe i've done already my share of mountaineering... Directions are here, the topo is a sheet located at the middle of the cliff, at the base.

The climbing is very interesting - it is a mix of crack jamming for your life, overhanging power moves, and slabby finishes requiring some artistic footwork and a light touch. The 6as/bs are not incredibly good, the fun starts at around 6c, with a couple of awesome lines such as Liga Champions or Arrel. Below myself at the first crux of Presseguer, an awesome 7b line with incredible finish move - for the balance-inclined ones!

An unknown climber finishing another hard crack 7b+, maybe a new project?

Thanks to Tranki for numerous belays - and to Par and Salva's support for the final successful attempt at Presseguer! Pictures by Par, there are advantages to climbing with a team of 3 and a good camera!


TR said...


Hey J.; congratulations for your succeeds at Grau dels Matxos...

About belays...sharing rope, i should say the same...liked to see your sight not angry with yoursefl but floating of joy, after redpointing presseguer...;P ;P ;P.

A long path is beginning, 7b is the gate...get ready.

BTW, i toke all gear but i forgot hammer and pitons...let think about the second day, check forecast and choose a long route...mybe pedraforca?

Remi said...

He Julie!! Il a l'air vraiment super ce site! Tu sais si on peut camper?

uasunflower said...

Remi - aucune idee, mais il y a un grand plateau en haut, ou on laisse la voiture, je ne vois pas qui viendra te dire qch si tu mets une tente la-bas, pas trop pret de la piste...