Another w-end, another sector. This time it was time for Riugreixer, a small sector above Baga, in the region of Berga. The best routes are in the welcome shadow in the afternoon, on the East face. Below Pau on Rinovirus, a very long, good 7a that already makes the trip worthwhilie:
Again, I had to confront my fears of overhang climbing - and again, the fears have not gone away. Flying and falling is as scary as before despite all the hard work and fly miles in Mowgli, Vianant, Alt Urgell...Climbing life is long and hard, at least for my little head. Thus, I failed to even toprope Magic Boulevard, and decided to go for easier objectives, the Violencia couple on the left. Violencia Domestica is a very good (and again long) 7a+, with crux in the second part. Violencia de Genere is more serious, hard 7b. I failed on that one too, below trying to confront the fears to fly:
The Medusa-woman, with all vertical works contraptions of long slings that do not substitute ever for a good head...May the red be the color of my shame...
And after the move...one day maybe I will learn to climb and fly...but it has not come yet.
8 comments:
fear factor is variable...don't worry...everybody is scared once, just facing a route you're not used to...
Keep on trying it, is just a matter of solving moves and knowig better the monster&u...simple...
i am scared not once, but often, and it is tiring to be going in circles. But that's just life, i know. On the positive side, Pegasus was born with wings.
SO, then...TAKE CARE WITH PERSEUS..IS A COOL MATE WHO TORTURES ANCIENT LADIES AND CARRIES A KIND OF SUPERFASHION MIRROR...NOT VERY EDUCATED WITH GORGONAS...
AND CHILDS ARE VERY STRESSING,I DON'T IMAGINE HOW COULD IT BE IF THEY HAD WINGS..NOT VERY C0MPATIBLE WITH CLIMBING AT ALL...
I am so scared to fly too... never found the receipe...
it is the instinct too, it is normal to be scared on subconscious level to fall. But it would be so nice to be able to control the brain better and 'relax' the instinct, at least from time to time...Maybe it is just genetic and cannot be changed? :)
Genetic no crec, el que si et puc assegurar es que alguna cosa canvia dins teu de forma imprevista i tot esdevé natural i flueix com un riu sense obstables.
hey,
Is just a matter of being CENTERED in the route.
Usually fears appear when you twist your mind not focusing only on the route...doubts about the gear, the result of the fall...
There is some "metods" to delete this misdirected minds:
A process working the route, not long but necessary. Make some topropes, to solve the movements in a solid way that give you security in gt between bolts, to know how to clip the bolts, and to be used to the endurance of the route.
Use extensions but only when there is a real danger ( not fatal but is not agradable to hit a wall when it was not necessary)...experience the falls controlling, just to know they are not dangerous. After some falls doing the crux you will focuse only in the crux...
And then try to send the route, when you've fallen some times in a movement finally you'll not think about the fall, just about take the hold, and another, and another...
Mix this with fisical improvement just " a muerte"...boulder climbing and endurance training will give to you a new vision about what are you able to do when you think you're out!!!
And then say just " a muerte"...
Nobody has the answer, everybody is learning everyday...but don't get stopped...push harder.
BTW: looking other people flying and going a muerte, will give you motivation to do the same...and will force you to do the same...
Yes, anonymous, but my problem is not really flying per se - when i get used to the route, i do give it all and fly.
The problem is onsighting and in the beginning of a project. It is no wonder one can get used to falling after 20 tries on the route, but i do get annoyed at myself for having to toprope and put ten draws and extentions on projects around 7b/7c range that by now i should be ok doing without those...
I guess it's just that i do not have enough patience right now, or i should go find one serious project and center myself into that and stop whining.
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