Tuesday, December 21, 2010


This year will be remembered as the tipping point, consolidating my conversion from alpine to sport climbing.  From struggling to lead 6as the year before to onsighting 7as and redpointing 7cs.  From lame socializing at the climbing gym to serious training three days a week.  From not being able to pull myself off the ground with both hands to doing 3 decent pull-ups on jugs and 2 pull-ups with 3 fingers on slopers.  That's as much progress as my mind can fathom in a year - and i am still struggling with the consequences (tendonitis, triumphalism, and hubris at the rocks).  I have also worked a little bit on my head skills - although long way remains to decrease the gap between onsight and redpoint grade, or to increase the amount of accumulated flying miles.  The psychological aspect of climbing is the most fascinating and the hardest to challenge through direct action.  I have tried - and hopefully will keep trying, although I do not believe fear could - or should - ever go away.

Otherwise I'm afraid I have not progressed as much in other domains - .i remained stubborn, self-centered, closed as a marmot, and alone as ever.  Oh, I did get a Masters' degree, too, so that is another accomplishment I tend to forget.  I also started giving classes and improved my presentation skills to the point of feeling comfortable presenting my own work to the audience of serious professors in front of me.  Maybe climbing helps me in a way in this not that related field - i started to tell myself that if i can deal with the stress and panic of a hard climb, if i can assume the risk of flying and still give it my best, if i can try that hard - and survive - i can also master the critical eye of the other.  I can expose myself - maybe just a little bit - take the cloth off and share my world - invite people in, or at least move the curtain a little aback.  Having a blog is also my way of sharing.  Let's hope next year i will have more things to share, more motivation to improve, and more dreams to look up to and possibilities to imagine.  Or not.  The black hole is always there, ready to swallow the elephant, the giraffe, or any other prey walking with their head high and spirits low.  Hit me, may the new year begin.

And last but not least - my first try at editing a video, cameraworks by Pau, myself redpointing Viatgi Imaginari...Happy holidays and loads of inspiration to you all.

Imaginary Journey from Uasunflower on Vimeo.

(sorry for writing Spain in the title, the "error" was pointed to me after the editing had been closed...)


nonse said...

Happy new year.

There's no BLACK HOLE but in our minds...Not only climbing has this psicological paths!!!

Allways look (and smile) at the bright side of life!!!

Enjoy, and good climbs...keep pushing, next year will be great...!!!

Sana Zulic said...

Happy holidays, keep on climbing, writing and enjoying the life :). Your's blog reader :) Sana

uasunflower said...

thx, and nice to meet you, Sana!

Anonymous said...

Hi Julia,
Congrats for all your achievements. I´m impressed with your great climbing progress. It´s admirable. Although I must say I miss your alpine climbing posts and the great pictures you (used to ) post. Wishing you a great end of the year and a better beginning.
Your blog´s reader and follower from the very beginning of it.
Nerea (kattagorri)

uasunflower said...

thx, Nerea, and maybe one day we meet in the Basque country? :)

Mark McGowan said...

well done Uasunflower on Masters. Enjoyed vid! here is to a great 2011...bring it on!!!!!!!!!!!:-)

uasunflower said...

agreed and thx, Mark!