Monday, October 28, 2013

Rodellar times


Jazz said...

Nice girl, we had the pleaseure to stay along one day with her in the route base. This is the history of that short experience with her.

My friend and I where climbing in la Piscineta for 5 days last year…We never used Knee protections, so we climbed three 8 routes without knee restings ( harder and pain!) . My friend was recommended by a guy to take and use his knee protectors from his backpack, also in the base of the road…many climbers where leaving their gear there, all colleagues he said.

The next day we toke a knee protector from that backpack. Just starting the route we where trying ( at the second bolt), Olexandra came with his friend, she kindly did not say nothing and started to search in the backpack we opened some minutes before. When I asked her what she was doing ( I thought she maybe was trying to stole something from our mate), she told us it was HER backpack.
We explained the situation, while my friend descended from the SECOND BOLT, and gave her back the Knee Protector. She suddenly got mad, and started to accuse us of being thiefs and taking his gear without any permission. We tried to explain her again it had been a confusion, but he told us we had completely injured his sending plans, for her it was the first day with good conditions…
After trying to make her understand our error, we started to climb an 8a+ at the left. He returned to COSI base, and left us climb. I send the route, and after the crux there is an easier part of 10 mts with a scary runout till the end, not more than 7a but it was my second go and I had not tryied this part before.

Olexandra started to argue and protest again to my belayer, I was feaking out! I asked her to let me climb, but she demanded my belayer to pay the Knee protection, and accused us to fuck her rotpunkt by spoiling the knee protection ( it had been oversized by being used by other climbers we supposed, she told us the backpack where there along the last month).
Finally I desesperately invited her to shut up her mouth and let me climb, shouting about not to disturb anyone who is belaying. She went to COSI, and rested relaxed…when I was descended after the sent she seemed embarrassed, and asked me sorry, she told that day was very important for her, and we completely destroyed it…she also told me CLIMBING was her entirely life, not only a sport (!!!). I told her that when she was a baby, climbing was already the most important for me!!!

My friend started an 8b+, he did it at the second go, finishing in a chain and clipping a permanent draw in a 7b move after the crux and before the end…one meter right there was another chain. I descended him shouting and giving him congrats, it had been a nice fight.
Olexandra’s friend suddenly went to my friend ( I was belaying him, and he climbed along the ropes until where we where), and asked him how he did the last move. (Olexandra had been observing all the rotpunkt and spoke with his friend after it).
We thought Olexandra’s friend wanted to try the route, and my friend gave him the last beta, completely happy for his highlight.

Like a completely stupid, Ole’s friend told to my friend “you can’t count this route on your scorecard, the correct route finishes one meter right, the last move is 7c, and to the left is 7b…you didn’t send the route” ( this was the first time we listened that guy’s voice along that day!!).
My friend climbs 8c+, and almost did all the route onsighting ( the first part is graded 8b/b+)…he told that guy he did not mind all that sucking stuff… …Ole’s friend told him again he hadn’t sended the route, and went down with Ole…

I just toke my gear and went down. I toke a swim in the river and let Olexandra climbing “alone”( she used earphones all day), and falling twice in COSI ( then it was 8c, now it’s 8c+ due to a tufa rupture where Ole rested, nobody graded COSÍ 8c+ then or when she did the route!).

The lesson: Performance has not any relation with the human style of a climber, or maybe anybody could have a bad day.

uasunflower said...

sorry to hear about the bad day, Piscineta looks amazing though...

Jazz said...

Rodellar is a kinda pardise, but the real one is la PISCINETA.

Blue water ( not green) in the base, not so many people as Mascun.

The way only takes 30/45 min from Rodellar ( you have to ascend from Cafe Solo to find the way down to the another canyon, but it's easyen than the Guide explains.

The grade is also softer than in Mascún. The warming route is a 7b+ very easy, just endurance in grat holds.

Recommended Routes:

*Adios Pepito: 8a 45 mts. long diagonal left traverse, endurance but extenuation, maybe runouts due to teh lenght of the route.

Las Dos Golondrinas de la pIcineta: 8a+. Very soft but remains in the grade. 30/35 mts. Inmense Tufas with a short crux in smaller edges. The way to the chain is more alpine.

*Pieds Nues sur la terre sacree: 8a 25 mts. Awesome climb in a hard overhang. Resistence in tufas and a harder crux...beautiful and progressive.

*7b+: Bored and easy. endurance. Seemed 7a+...

*Cosi Fan Tutti: Pitch 1.8a+. Harder than its neighborns. Great exposure, a trip. Tufa climbing with some harder moves.

*There is a 8a starting from a hanged belay opver the water. Pitch1 6c+ ( not interesting for warming) Pitch2 8a/a+...graded 8a, somehard moves to get to the chain. Watchout if you fall before end descend you must clip back the rope along the route, so the situation would end into the water.

The main routes have the landing in the less deep parts of the Piscineta, take care if you don't want a wet finishing.

uasunflower said...

rodellar is amazing, 'd love to go to piscineta some day, but need to be stronger for that.