Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Cavallers

Reaching the high of my climbing career - the redpoint of Massa Kumba, Afrikan Wall, Cavallers. A bolted, perfect crack, what better to practice some jamming skills? (photo by Par Lindholm)

7 comments:

Xavi said...

Really good job!!!

What's next?

PGB said...

Congrats! I was there, climbing with Pär, when you send it!

uasunflower said...

:) thx, it's such a beautiful line - despite the bolts (although i most probably would not have been capable of leading it on gear anyway).

Next? that 7b on the right of your project in Centellas, Xavi!!!

Syl said...

oooooOOOOOleee!! Very nicenice photo! Vertikaldance!
This are you?!! (is so small..)

Congratulatiooooooooonssssssssss!!!

TRanki said...

heheh..

j. i told ya that's a great line. next sunday just try to join it with the crack down your feet (ilegales)...you avoid the boulder start of ilegales and give to Massa Kumba a harder endurance.

Take the gear, climbing it with cams and nuts gives a new vision of this routes...the dangerous part is the start of Massa kumba...

I climbed smith rocks with a crashpad and two keepers down the start of the route, some cams along Massa Kumba, a nutcam on the monofinger of the crux of smith, and two cams in the crack of ilegales...the exit of smith rock can be protected with two hangers on perfect positive edges...it's scary but hardgrit,,,the danger is to hit the slope at the left...glups...then it looks more 8a than with the bolts!

DIEDRE DEL NEGRE ( 6b or 6b+) it's hiper safe with gear ( was first ascended in clean climb)..you can warm up your mind there...and jut put the protections in toprope to MASSA ILEGALES ( aka also ILEKUMBAS)...7b+ or a harder 7b than MASSA kUMBAS...

SATURDAY? let's make a up and down if the forecast heps us?

YUYU is also a layback is calling u...just endurance, expo with only bolts, if u put the pro's in aid climb can have a cam every 50 cms..hehehe...it's a second pitch...

TRanki said...

hahah...

7b is a strange difficult...the gate to difficult and the kind side of the pain...

sometimes good, sometimes evil...

be cool and patient, "presseguer" is sure made 4 u...give him time, give you time...just being used to forms and senses, just enjoiyng fear...then will become 5+...be water!

%P

Cathy said...

7b?! OK I am well impressed. That really is amazingly good (and a great photo too).