Wednesday, January 27, 2010

No luck involved in climbing?..

Salva in Freeblock mentioned an interesting idea to me yesterday, that there is no luck involved in climbing. Given his bias, he was certainly speaking about sport climbing, specifically about getting up projects, or doing what it takes redpointing routes.  That stroke me as probably true - and one of the biggest differences between sport climbing and mountaineering, or climbing longer routes.  Much more uncertainty based on weather, logistics, partners, approaches etc. are involved in the latter, and following Murphy's law there are many more things not directly under our control that can go wrong there.

Sport climbing on the other hand is not only much more concentrated on technical moves, the flow over the rock and affronting the pure difficulty, it is also about eliminating the uncertainty by all means away from the objective environment.  The uncertainty is there, it is still present enough to make the game interesting and filled with unexpected to the brim, but the uncertainty boils down to the subjective factors alone, it is you and the rock, rock and you - clear and simple, direct and real.  You yourself can make the redpoint, clip all the draws, and get to the chain.  Your strength or your head can fail the test.  It is rarely the belayer's fault, as much as one would sometimes wish to shift the blame, to find the 'bouc emissaire'.

All this to say that it is time to test the absence of luck and the presence of skill.  New project, new obsession.  La Rush.  Back to the game, and waiting for summertime, the perfect moment, the inspiration.  Or maybe not - I am ready, it is time to affront the orange, the rock, the wall.  Montserrat.

First steps working the Rush, picture by Oriol.


Anonymous said...

well, then ,u need 2 get ready...!

But d aleatoriety of all is focused in if does not rain in Catapatagonia, where we live! lately is easyer to do the Sthandart than approach to Senglar...

good song, she has another good one about cardiology dissections, like her and her music...remembering the brightning sixties?

enessfu said...


the "bouc emissaire" is like the "whipping boy"?

we call it "l'ase dels cops".