Friday, July 09, 2010

el Vianant

Project-based climbing is about training and training again, going back to the same old route for many a time, with desperation, inspiration, and persistence, all of it a price to pay for the quick, short, and elating moment of infinite possibility and incredible lightness of being. The process is full of uncertainty, outside conditions, stress, and the enduring need for control.  Controlling your own body, or more precisely reaching this connection between the brain - knowledge of all the moves, memory of foot and hand holds, visualization of the exact feelings and sensations on the rock, - and the body, - the repository of knowledge, the willful executive agent.  The intellectual aspect of it is so full, so incredibly intense, so much about being passionately alive there and for that exact moment.  Either you can choose to agree that no ultimate attempt could be made, that it is too hot, you are too tired, too nervous, not ready, that next time might be better - or you can rebel, say no, now is the time, pain is irrelevant, absence of skin is irrelevant, tendons don't hurt, temperature is perfect, but the main thing - the vital crucial thing for me - is the pure joy of it.  To make the route not the enemy, but a testpiece that has to be tasted and cherished like a meal at a good restaurant, as a good glass of wine or cava, that has to be experienced to the fullest, giving it all the respect, and all your effort. 

Redpointing el Vianant, 7c+, Montserrat, the crux move:

Thanks to all that have supported me in this undertaking, and the many belays in the excruciating heat - Pau, Juanjo, Javi, - and most of all Uri. Thank you, again.


TRanki said...

He He he...

VIVA!!!!, finalmente YA ES TUYA eh?...y esta es SERIA de verdad !!!

Simplemente ENJOY THE ROCK...el resto ya no importa.

FELICIDADES, de una GRAN VIA y un progreso impresionante en un año..NO HI HA LIMIT!!!

Ya has agotado el GOAL LIST que te pasé...ahora què? Bueno, ya iré pensando...

Pobres belayers!!! hehehe!

Pau said...

Ei Bowa, et llegeixo des d'aqui al Franken, un dia de semi descans despres de caure ja a l'ultim pas de l'enessim dur 7b de bloc de per aqui .... m'en alegro moltíssim per a tu, es una via que has treballat des del principi i que l'has anat fent teva. De veritat el teu missatge em va deixar glassat i ple d'alegria, no dubtis ni un moment que tot allo que et proposis esta al teu abast.

M'hauria agradat estar al teu costat, perque segurament tenies un somriure d'orella a orella.

Una abraçada molt forta, bowa. Ens veiem a Ventosa :P

Xavi said...

Ole!! Ole!!
Julia, cada dia mas impresionante!!

Por cierto ayer estuve en Tossa haciendo algo de psicobloc con Ori.

Haber cuando vamos hacer una via larga de verdad!!


uasunflower said...

merci, bous :)

Xavi - a ver, espero pronto!!!

Pär said...

Julia, this is truly inspiring and makes me want to finally find a hard redpoint project of my own! I seriously think these texts about your long term projects are some of the coolest and best texts I've ever red about the essence of sport climbing. I think you should send some of these texts to Climbing or Rock&Ice. And then you should also go to Rodellar and struggle on Pequeño Pablo with me!

uasunflower said...

Thanks, Par, and i think my next project might be in St Llorenc, let's go some day!!