A discovery for me - the Bruixes crag, well-known by the hard-climbing Catalan girls, inspired me this w-end despite the cold, tiredness from training, and aching ear n' throat. After redpointing Jam Session on the second go and onsighting Pasta sin Agua following good advice and quickdraws in the right places by Pau and Lluis, I spent the rest of the w/end trying out Occident, a good, well-overhanging line for me - polished jug haul with the tufa ending for the strong. I think we'll be back...
Moreover, now with the new Lleida Climbs guidebook the menu of North-bound climbs from Barcelona has been increased substantially. Good work, Pete, Dani, & Albert, and nice picture album. Although some errors in the guidebook have already popped up - i.e. Cobra Canaries on African Wall in Cavallers is rated 7b+ instead of 8a, a stretch even for the strong guys!
9 comments:
For Cavallers, only 4 sectors come up, Afrikan, Drinking & Xalmet, Pared Inerte and Agulles (long routes). Funny enough, Ultrakumba is 7a, Fuera de Computadora is 7b, Fredi Mercury is 8a, Frambuesa is 8a, Black mamba is 7b, Flipin is not graded/named, Somos los Congitos is 7a+, Smith Rocks is 7c+, Cris does not appear...basically inconsistent IMHO or done by someone who has NOT climbed all the routes involved...
I agree Cobra is harder than Cris, and much harder than Congitos, Black Mamba etc., for me the move was harder than anything on FanFan or Lilita - but it is one move. So long live 7b+ :)
Good way to do a guide.
Hope they don't do the same in the other zones...trying some 8a's or 7c+ graded as 7b+ it would be fun...
Smith Rocks is at less, 2/3 points softer than FRAMBUESA. Frambuesa was initially rated 8b when smith rocks was 8a...Smith could be a hard 7c and Frambuesa a normal 8a+...but they are REALLY mORE DIFFERENT than 1 level!! ( Usobiaga-then 8c onsight- needed 4 goes to redpoint FRAMBUESA...curious...)
BTW: SOMOS lOS CONGUITOS 7a+? also very fun...
well, I'd like to see how will it all appear in luichy's new topo guide edition !!!
Yes, fun indeed, let's wait and see...
ok, complaint posted on 8a.nu forum dedicated to new guidebook, i'll probably get flamed...
Don't mind...
BTW, appart flames, try to make a fist JAM at the last hard TUFA move of occident..think is the trick if you're rightly sized...
fist jam with right or left hand? I actually did a hand jam with right, it still hurts :)
My problem is actually below, still haven't figured out how to get my feet up from underclinging the tufas to getting on the tufas themselves...Haven't made up my mind either if I like the route - but it is definitely a good exercise in endurance before trying out Viatgi.
Think they are different style. Don't remember exactly but you gotta RUN till the rest in the middle of the route, after an athletic zone and before a crux...don't remembre how to reach the tufas but i can remember there was a definitive right hand jam, to solve the exit to the left ( hard till the end)...it will help you to save lots of power...just pull from the tufa is very hard!
I did the route in the 2nd go, can't remember anything more, sorry...
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