Wednesday, May 30, 2007

Aiguille d'Ansabere

Cirque of Lescun is one of the most beautiful and wild valleys I have seen (yes, despite like 20 hikers that passed gaping under our route and the five Galsworthy Englishmen inhabiting for two weeks the Ansabere cabins below - btw they were very nice and ofered us perfect coffee with rom - apparently called Jamaican coffee - boiled in an Irish storm kettle!). Here is the view from the parking lot at our objective - the climbing happens on the very vertical pillar to the right.



We actually tried for the proposed route (Spigolo on Petite Aiguille d'Ansabere) twice, the first attempt finished in rambles as Renaud decided to have stomach ache at 6 am.

The second attempt proved successful although we had to do the 7b pitch through aid and nearly missed a thunderstorm on top that made me enjoy much less the last 2 pitches. Exposure and view from the place are perfect - although climbing-wise we were a little bit disappointed (maybe getting out the aiders had smth to do with that...).



This is me following the 7b pitch, and here is Renaud in the middle of an easier traverse after that.


Finally, the thunderstorm got us just before we joined the five Englishmen for coffee - and here is what we got :

4 comments:

stone.d.cologne said...

wow! great place with lots of exposure!

uasunflower said...

I actually liked the place more than the climbing - maybe cause i suck at hard grades. But it is very beautiful, very Dolomites-like.

Anonymous said...

Hi,finally you climbed in Ansabere. You seem a little bit disappointed with the route. Was it very hard?kattagorri.

uasunflower said...

yes for me. the 7a+/7b pitches - well-bolted for aiding, but hard to imagine them free...