Monday, October 05, 2009

Montserrat, Aguja del Centenar

Another Sunday long route plan with Xavi turned out to be a group meeting with 5 people, 2 parties, and a successful ascent of the Cade route on Agulla del Centenar.  Topo here, the route runs through a 200m dihedral more or less in the middle of the pic above.  It has been my first visit to the Frares region of Montserrat, giving a vistaso to another Agulla, del Bisbe, with its tempting Gam route I'd also like to do one day (any takers??).

The Cade went through quickly, with 4 long pitches, one half loose rock and one half awesome climbing on cracks and holes, friends and lovely old pitons well used up in the process.  Given that Salva only has 15 years of sport climbing experience, i ventured to lead it all by myself, like a big and responsible girl.  Below Salva happily (and sneezingly) following p3 that we linked with p2 (shadows of Xavi, Patricia and Luis at the first tree belay far below):

Given my incurable late obsession with sport climbing, after the Cade I made Salva run down the descent without even summitting the last remaining pitch of 3 and we gave another try to Policieros, a pending hardcore project in Secretivo.  Below are a couple of pics from another 'afternoon session' of climbing at the same Secretivo, 2 days earlier, when I got the first taste of Policieros and its hardcore suffering for all guaranteed.  Secretivo is a 20-route sport area 1-min from the road in Montserrat Norte, conveniently in the shade in summer (less convenient in winter).  Below is Joan working his project, picture by Tranki:

And Tranki himself, redpointing the same 7c with muchos excaletcrics y poco miedo:

Music to accompany here.


Xavi said...

Hola Julia!!!

Estuvimos en la cima disfrutando de las vistas, y luego fuimos al Bruc hacer una cerveza, que tal tu proyecto 7b, encadenaste?

La GAM del Bisbe es muy buena pero de momento no tengo intencion de repetirla.

Nos vemos!

uasunflower said...

:) que bien! No, no encadene, era solo para conocer mejor los pasos, es demasiado dura esta via...

Syl said...

Bonita la CADE y aun no la he escalado.. ¡Felicidades! Me alegro de que por fin hayas conocido la regió de Frares,

aunque des de mi punto de vista deberás de volver,

quizá al Bisbe..

y con un poco más de calma y con tiempo..para disfrutar no tansólo de la escalada sino también un poco de la cima y la magia del un rincón muy especial pero necesita un poco de pausa..

¡¡Ese fanatimmmmmmo!!..jejeje

L'aresta GAM te la recomiendo para disfrutar en libre (tal como estás de fuerte:-)

PD: la canción que has linkado y la Regió de Frares..buf, no sé..
(menudos gallos le salen a la buika;!!:-)

TRanki said...

Hey J...

Yo'r overtrained and can't appreciate real difficults...hheh

Policieros just stands some tries from's matter of finding a good session and memo the low part coreography...sure.

CONGRATS 4 ur 7b second try ( almost flshingat first) i ANTRO-CAVALLERS...

MAKING a PIADA of CADE and not TELLING anything about 7b's at second try??...hehehe...

At secretivo VIUDA NEGRA is a little forced between its neighbourns routes, but interesting..graded 7c+ it's also a gift...but interestig when you forget the good ledge at ur left ( never tried rooutes with not allowed holds!!!???)