Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Cold and rainy Margalef

This w-end was not exactly conducive to climbing, being basically a cold and rainy disaster of a weather menu. With a group of friends we still managed an outing to Margalef, a sport-climbing paradise spot hiding sleepily behind the Montsant range. The road there is curvy and long making anyone unprepared or unmotivated car-sick quickly. Usually it is a worth-while winter climbing spot as its crags have a good sun exposure and the canyon captures heat well. This time it did not work perfectly - maybe the absence of sun had something to do with it, as well as the intermittant rain showers, hail, and wind gusts.

We managed a visit to Can Torxa and Ca La Marta sectors. The highlight for me has been flashing Chachi Qui Chapi while making the nose of my belayer bleed!..  Below is Pau redpointing the same (yes, he kindly volunteered to put draws on it for me), awesome picture by Julietta from Meteora, Greece (yes, another place to visit one day - now maybe with a personal guide =)

We than tried (hopelessly for me) Espinazo del Diablo, an awesome 7a+ requiring serious bouldery moves, and an even worse 7b, Instint Animal, in Ca La Marta.  Below myself leading one of the very nice 7a slabs on the left-hand end of Ca La Marta - unfortunately under pouring rain at times (the unfocused parts of the pic below are actually rain drops...)

At the crux, just before the ´pilla´ shout:

Again, pictures by Juliette, thanks!


TR said...

Hey J.

CA LA MARTA is a shadow sector! is recommended for summer! ( cold and sometimes wet).

Espinazo del diablo HAS TRICKS...the moves in the pinch are managed trough concrete positions and big holds ( really far but if yopu manage some "bicicletas" it turns easier).

The hardest move is to start in the roof, and the travers above it, then there is some ways to make move and rest, move and rest...and the pinch.

You could enjoy a lot i LES FINESTRES ( Check insolation before), at the left there is some 7b to 7c very interesting...the last 7c at left is a step ( not overhanged) and vertical wall with gaudinian shapes which has no great cruxes, only technical endurance...a good project.

But you gotta go to senglar again...Discordia, Rush and new ones at the right of the crag ( 7b+.7c i 7a+ with rings...Montserrat tipical climbing, desdentegada-arcada style...)

Enjoy ur Montsec trip!!!!

uasunflower said...

yes but it was raining anyway so shadow or no shadow did not matter...

espinazo - yes, for me the hardest was to get up after the first ´getting off the ground´ crux to reach the start of the traverse - did not figure it out. The traverse - could do it, heel hook, but than difficult to either clip or get up - did not figure it out either. Afterwards it´s easier, went all the way to anchor...

many other zones to visit too. Senglar is the plan for 2 days next Saturday-Sunday. Is there a reseña of Senglar somewhere with those new routes??

TR said...

This routes are close to the classical ones. The last classical one is SPRINT FINAL ( 8a+), and then a crack with some buriles and pitons ( SAME:A2 or 7a+)...in teh same begginning there is a line of scellements...is the 7b+. Everybody tells it's a very nice route, hard onsight but very complete and beautiful. The next to the right is 7c, harder and not tipped, so difficult onsight. The last one, less vertical, is 7a+...the comment from the mate was take a gps!", i don't think he was talking about scellements ( i saw them correctly near), but for the moves...it seemed very complicated to find the holds...but is 7a+...!

The other routes are the tipical in the topo from luichy ( montserrat sur)


LEFT WALL, at the beginning of the wall, there is a ugly hole full mini wall. The firts bolt is very high:6a+
The first official route: 6b+ or 6c(directly to the chain).
7a+ or 7b ( not very good,too much close to the corner)
DISCORDIA:7b, 7c+ or 8a second pitch.
VIATGE IMAGINARI: 8a 8 original version, to the left, hard bloc).7c/c+ right exit.
TRENQUEM EL BLOQUEIG: starts from CORRECAMINS, after a rest, to the right. 8a+ or 8b
BEN PETAT: 7c+ or a 5stars soft 8a of hard endurance.
SPRINT FINAL: 8a+. HArd endurance, very beautiful
next:(lost project)
CRACK: SAME 7a+, old equipment, need aliens and maybe a piton ( i didn't used any one)

from this routes to la AGULLA FINA, climbing is forbidden, there is three other routes ( 7c, 7b+ and 7a+, maybe not in this ordr, i can't remember), technical and not very good,.

At la AGULLA FINA there is a rope and access route ( 7a), to the ledge in the left side of the AGULLA, from there start TWO routes. ANGLE INVERS ( 7c+50 mts...incredible route), and , at right, MINIM ESFORÇ ( 8a 45 mts.. atrip)
From the little cave at the base of the AGULLA ( in the legde) start LOURDES ( 8b 60 mts 23 bolts)...doing a little pendulum you can clip the first ans second bolt of UN POCO LOCO...is huber's 8b, with 11 bolts in teh same hight than lourdes...a mental problem...hard boulder to start ans a long 8a with long trips between every bolt...

see ya there...

uasunflower said...

:) thx, tranki - all ressenyas in one!