I managed another try on Mogli, the 7b+ obsession of mine in Camarasa, La Selva section on Sunday. This time i will document it through a photo essay, thanks to the pendulum, photo, and climbing efforts of Tranki.
Mid-climb with Joan belaying among the mess the 4 of us managed to create at the base:
Getting through the crux section:
The big rest after the crux:
The final hard lie back moves at the top:
The fall:
Learning points:
* figured out the clipping
* found a rest before the crux
* managed to do the whole crux section several times, also from ground up on lead
* dared to really go for it on the top overhanging section last time on lead
* led the climb with 1 fall on the last hard move...
The send is still hanging in the future air...
3 comments:
heheh!
J.
Lets turn the 2nd pic to the left...it will appear more realistic and nice.
Why don't you put one of the take to "la RAmbla"? They where GENIAL, seems to be yourself in a 9a+...sure it could appear in the cover if CLIMBING MAGAZINE..hehhhh!
Learning point: ONLY ONE...you're RIGHT to do it, next one is the good one...go for it.
Try to find the path of the warrior inside of you, you gotta move the rage not AGAINST the route, but to improve your force and to go straight ahead to the chain...
be MOwgli, j...jungle happiness and good flow...
Next time...sure!
PD: i found a strange pleasure in jumping to the void...hehehe
Mr. photographer, you are right, I stand corrected! and...oh, just need a belayer for another try...
The final hard "lie" back to the top?
hahaha!!
Maybe is not the true way to redpoint the route?
MAybe it "lies" you, giving you a false security and oblying to clip a extension that makes you loose strenght?
ahhhhhhh...vaaaaaleeee! ( i'm moving my head unp and down and lightly lateral, it's a mixture between afirmation and ironic incredulity...).
don't worry about belayer peke...even Joan wants to get back there...
ah...next route you try, please, closer to bcn ok? ;p
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