his w-end was a productive climbing exercise, that first began in Gelida. I went soft on myself this time, enjoying redpointing some old projects of mine. We started at the right end, where i finally went for the 6b+ roof traverse. It went through smoothly, giving me confidence for the things to come. The second objective, Chapas Negras, almost fell at the first attempt putting up draws, and was accomplished at the second try. The third objective, a 7a(+) 4 climbs to the right of Chapas Negras did not want to go onsight, but i managed to get a redpoint on the second try.
In the meantime Pau tried his No Ho Se, 7b project, and i took some pictures of Jordi doing inspirational moves on another climb, Pau carefully belaying.
The start:
Next:
And the final picture of his fall i am rather proud of:
5 comments:
Hey J.
The pics of this post are from a 7b/b+ (or 7c/c+ if you climb after the rest, to the right).
The cruxs of both are in the midle part of the route, after this rest above the move where the climber falls.
At Gelida there is the next 8a's:
Tunel del terror (next one after an unknown route, right of NO HO SÉ), with a stone fixed with sika...
Tocat de l'Ala, (a route that starts at the right of the one the climber is taken).
Winchester ( left or right version), from the hole seen at his right up.
Amb la boka plena de sika ( the same hole but not taking it as a rest)
Travessa de les Cabres (from the upper part of "boka" before the crux, and to the right)
ok corrected...
Merci Tranki, no aniras a dormir sense aprendre una cosa mes :P
Ups ...sorry, i read back the comment and seemed i was a little asshole ( vanity?).
The correction was absolutely neutral, don't missunderstand me please! :C
The 7b+ and the 7c/c+ are really hard, the move where the climber falls has a trick and you gotta do it very fast and taking very hard the crimps.
In the 7c+ or 7c/c+ the crux is very hard ans a little EXPO ( long fall, don't know if a long extension is possible and effficient). After doing it i discovered an alternative move, not directly to the ledge where de crux dies but moving to the right, and making a longer but safer move...
The exit to the chain is only 6a but there's no bolts...very crazy...
A girl, friend of mine, did this route allways with a helmet...
yes, i couldn't believe the run-out on top of that thing, whatever the grade of it is :) ...
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