Sunday, February 21, 2010

Wishing for a star

Some wishing going on from a frustrated climber going through a hangover and reading others' positive posts (i.e. Tufa Tufa):

- strong head to be able to reach anchors on 7As
- strong fingers to be able to pull on one-finger pockets as a younger and desperate sister to Iker Pou
- inspiring projects to keep hungry
- and...as my friend Pau says, K SE ACABE EL PUTO FRIO !!! (let's be done with the cold...)

9 comments:

Anonymous said...

You got the head power...despite is not allways needed in sport climbing!

Not all routes require finger power, check out the schools you visit...

You're in the country full of variety, snow, cold or rain is not an excuse...maybe motivation?

The solution is to keep yourself MOVING...searching for the rock and the motivation...cold is good for the friction, take profit of it to try some routes that need this conditions!!!

Pau said...

pornoeroticsexual 7c in Pla de la Freixa, at Mongrony. But I think we have not enought time until kalymnost trip .... but all is possible.

uasunflower said...

talking about kalymnos...maybe try Papagora in Espero Primavera? El Prado del rey en el Pati? o Morena Corwin o Stage o NK en Siuranella Sur?..

new projects, there i come :)

Anonymous said...

CAnyes i marro ( 7b+) Montgrony ( pornoerotik has a bloc start, and a very hard block before a good ( ;) ) "rest". the exit to the chain has another boulder move...

GENGIS KHAN is better...and ALL the PARQUING routes...a good 7c is "ANANT EN CROSSES"...technical begginning ( not slab but small edges and feet), power endurance, good rest and hard move with a trick at the end...very complete. There is a good 7a to warm up ( bugs bunny-with "chorerras"), and a 7b+ and a 7c at the right of the 7a...good routes and complicated moves, endurance..."acceso inmediato!!"

To prepare a trip to Kalymnos think about improve your endurance in tridimensional climbs and "chorreras"...LES BRUIXES is a step to this skills, and maybe RODELLAR or very overhanged climbs...

uasunflower said...

Merci por los consejos, ahora solo tengo que ir a la roca!!! Quien me asegurara???

y - parece que se acaba el puto frio!!!!

Pau said...

Bruixes ....

Jam Sesion 7b, sustained. Tufas at begin, hard movment and before slab until chain

Derribus Areas 7b+, Tufas at begin. Very hard movment and more tufas.

Occicdent 7c, overhang with a "big" holds, one two finger step and the last two movments until the chain very very hards.


I will go this weekend, come with us.

ervitch said...

go bruixes J, good training for Kalymnos...and Greek spots ar more overhanged!

Some people visited the zone in CASTELLDEFELS ( Balcó de mar in spite of it is not allower until july), great overhamg with "mocos"...kalymos has more than tufas...there is stalactites!!!

In BRIXES,The 7b and 7b+ at left of PRIMERA LÍNEA have long distance between bolts...enjoy it a lot...PASTA SIN AGUA and the 7a+'s are softer...

Lluís said...

La Pornoeroticasexual com diu el tranki no mata i per liliputs es un infern... jo la vaig probar amb ganes i el primer pas de bloc (a un metre del terra) directament no em surt, passo. Canyes i marro bona i amb lo dur adalt, la Tormenta: bona, intensa i desplomadisima; la nan amb crosses no l'he probat, pero es veu molt bona, salvant les distencies deu ser el 7c mes rushtic de montgrony... Per Kalymnos Bruixes, porsupuest; Rodellar també, pero a hores d'ara deu estar ombrivol i mullat...
Al Balcó del Mar no s'hi pot anar ara! Hi ha restriccions de gener a juny!!! (la garretes i la mossa son una bona alternativa).

uasunflower said...

ya tengo una lista - merci!! :)