This w-end was some slab therapy time. After recognizing my gone endurance flailing at St Llorenc, i focused on what i like most - granite, in my favorite sport climbing spot, Cavallers. The time was well spent with friends assaulting African Wall, the jewel of the crown. Best topo available - still not completely right as there are actually 2 7bs after "Somos los congitos", 7a, Flipin Palan, and then Black Mamba. Topo by
Tranki.
More homework was thus done at African Wall this summer - the day started with inspiration: an onsight of Black Mamba. It seemed easy and good, was over too quickly as i went weightless from granite mushroom to mushroom. Then to continue with the serpents, i tried Cobra Canaries, first 8a off the 6b traverse (el mejor 6b del mundo), but it was too hard for this time (NEED NEW SHOES!!!!). So to get the spirits up, I finished by onsighting another slab reptile, the Flipin Palan after Pau generously left me many a draw on it. Thus, work left to do: Smith Rock, Cobra Canaries, la Frambuesa, and a little closer to my actual strength on slab right now - redpointing Cris.
Pau had his best w-end ever, redpointing first Massa Kumba, and then Los Illegales the second day:
Xavi decided on alpinism and la Traversia de Agujas de Traversani on the first day, and sport climbed with us on the second, here below on the 7a+ joining Massa Kumba:
And myself working hard the CRIS, an incredible futurist line, dedicated to
Cristina Gomez
Garcia.the Cris:
And again:
I left the route with 2 falls, it seemed pretty hard for 7c, I would upgrade it to 7c+ - incredible feat of imagination required to bridge the available holds on this one...
4 comments:
And the Solomillo what !!!!! Did you remember the flavor ? One Solomillo for pig "costilas" price !!!!
And good redpoints !!! did you use glue ? I cant understand !!!!
Solomillo was perfect, restaurante Casos in Boi is the best!!!
Glue is for the weak - I use ZEN and FLY spirit :)
congrats for yor redpoint J.
Palan and me decided not to give a grade to this route...i bolted the line one year before Cris died, and the day of the FA we automnatically renamed the route, with not any doubt...
Pulled by the other climbers that where testing the route we gave it 7c as a simple indication...but NEVER to classify this route as with a number...
CRIS is preserved the most of the years, from january to june under an avalanche. Allong the summer she is under a burning sun...all this factors keep her protected from the man vanity and only with real love and appreciation you can get the route...with dedication, opportunity and patience...
To bolt and test the route ( from down due to the line) was a hard work...finding the moves...you used long extensions so u realized bolts are not exactly close...
To wait for the heat to get out the snow was a long wait travelling there and finding her completely wet lots of times...
And that sad july was also hard to climb unmotivated, with Palan to give Cris out dedication...
We only ask you to enjoy the line, give out good vibrations for the gift you got being able to climb her ( not "it") and reccomend not to thing about any number...and maybe a visit-message to CRIS's Blog would be the best way for all of us to close this beatiful circle you draw while meeting, testing and sending this line.
Congrats again...
@Tranki - it has been my pleasure, incredible route, thanks.
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