Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Afternoon Sessions at Sant Llorenc

To know people is wisdom, but to know yourself is enlightenment
To master people takes force, but to master yourself takes strength  (Lao Tzu)

This summer the time has finally arrived to visit the famed Sant Llorenc, an interesting climbing area situated on top of the Matadepera town, known for having the highest per-capita income in Spain.  It is probably the best-managed online area with a pretty comprehensive topo available here.  St Llor is also an area with a high concentration of difficult climbs - starting with 7s at Gruyere or Paret Gran, and moving to the Siberia for the hardcore 8s.  Here one can meet on hot summer days such stars as Ramonet, onsighting most 8s of the Siber, or Helena Aleman training for her next send.  There is also some place for the mere mortals, to work, sweat, and cuss the bouldery routes.

Climbing at St Llor is special in its own way.  Although it is conglomerate like the near-by Montserrat, it is different in many ways.  It requires much more endurance, dynamic moves, and pure explosive force the boulderers are so good at harnessing.  It is basically at the antipodes of my climbing style - but I thought it still might be good to work out here a little, especially given the 'chuchuflu', or the heat wave that makes climbing anything at this time of the year a rather painful exercise.

Thus, we have been going up the dirt road for many days in a row with Pau, picking up lines and cussing at the challenges.  Pau did well, sending his first 7b+, and onsighting 7as.  I did not do much, falling off most projects here and there - although it is all good, all training for some invisible fuzzy future and mastering Lao Tzu's advice.  Pau eternalized one of those moments with his first full-blown 1-minute video of the afternoon sessions, proudly presented below, with Par climbing Performance in the background (another proud send!!):

S'hi ha d'anar from Pau Freixes on Vimeo.


Pau said...

Another phrase from Chinese philosophy

"In general, any form of exercise, if pursued continuously, will help train us in perseverance. Long-distance running is particularly good training in perseverance"

Sound like a Julia works !!!

uasunflower said...

Chinese are wright only half of the time. Running totally sux!

Xavi said...

Molt bo el video....jejejjee!!!

Pär said...

Haha, that video made me laugh! I didn't remember trying the crux that many times... I really like the little gay knee-drop I try to get in to get my ass closer to the wall. Oh yes, I'm happy for that send! Now I would like to do ANYTHING on pared gran.

Anonymous said...

On Paret Gran "Descanso Dominical" 7b+ is less physical, more thechnical and fingery and challenge your forearm endurance, is more tricky. In Placa de l'heura ("Clave Omega" 6c classic) several 25/30 mts 7b+ and 7b, "L'Enze" 7b and "Cicatrius emocionals" 7b+.
Pär: Paret Gran "Bauhaus" if you forget the first part. Be careful with "Quan es menja aquí" 7a+, hard.

Enjoy the moment

uasunflower said...

@Par - great send, man!!!

@Anonymous - thanks for suggestions.