Escapade à Paris

Having to study part of the w-end, we spent the other part rollerblading through Paris. Certainly it had to be the hottest day of the year, but comebacks are fun anyway. No old friends were at RDV though - Place Royal seemed abandoned by the roller crowd, no turns or figures there.

Musée Quai Branly substituted for the negative surprise. It is a very nice building, i loved most its naturalistic aspect. Nature is successfully integrated into the whole. Maybe the collections are just a repetition of what the old Museum of Man had to offer, but the new setting make it all much more accessible to the general public. And the Tour Eiffel looks beautifully young from its padio. Welcome to the Paris jungle! A definite must on the unending list of Paris' museums.

Eldorado, the Granite Mecca

Last w-end i finally reached the mountains. It happenned in the always welcoming Bernese Oberland, at the Grimsel Pass. Have not been in this region yet, and waiking up in the morning is definitely pleasant there. A view of Schreckhorn, afterwards Finsteraahorn's East face quickly make up for the driving and sleep deprivation.

We headed to Eldorado, a 500m granite slab over the west end of the GrimselSee dam. As the crowd headed up Motorhead (at least 4 pairs), we turned our attention to Metal Hurlant, a little bit harder alternative. Even here we managed to get off route during the beginning pitches, but did get to the crux arrete 6b through a traverse (photo). Very nice crux that goes through chimney techniques. The top was long and slabby 5a/c pitches. Long time i didn't do that kind of climbing - makes me think of Val di mello. With 2 bolts per pitch, even at 5a i failed to lead, but fun was there anyway.

Couleur Café

This w-end was full of discoveries - first and foremost at Couleur Café festival. We went there Friday, before the unfortunate fire on Saturday, and fun it was. Despite a slight disappointment with Gotan Project and Sanseverino, my favorite was Vetex Orchestra, a local band that kept me jumping on one leg up and down all evening.



Here is a link to their music, similar to Varda - and something to be seen in concert, or should i call it a rambling show with Kusturica taste...
http://www.oidv.net/mp3/oidv_stockholm.mp3

Limestone in CH

Last-minute decision with good results - weather being disgusting in the North, Switzerland looked better on the radar map, there we go! It's been a couple of w-ends i worked on my leading skills back home, so this is not a bad test - go to long-planned for places and try some climbing out!

First objective - the Gasts. Gastlosen is a magic place that somehow forewent overcrowding and still keeps its origins untouched. It is usual to spend many minutes on the approach in the car, waiting for all the cows to cross or to smell milk with that particular 'just from the cow' smell when entering a refuge.

Rain greats us in the morning, but the wind is quiet and south faces look good. We start the approach in the rain - not exactly the best thing when planning for a 400m classic, but whatever, we're hungry to climb. The limestone looks good - almost untouched despite all guidebooks calling Nikita the classic of the place. Opened in the beginning of the 90ies for its first part, it was finished in the 2000. The enormous S face looks almost bare of long routes, and we start the fun. Slabs and slabs, friction and more slabs characterize well the 200m to come. Fun, and we're not too tired to try the second part. A bit harder, the first 7a pitch is undecipherable; things get better afterwards with very cool 6bs in the end. We are tired and demotivated enough to leave the last 6a and 6c pitches alone, and successfully rap down for the dinnertime. Good times.

The day afterwards is a 'rest day'. It starts with a perfect bivy at Buufal, a magic valley. We wake up to find wigwams, cows and horses nearby. Oh, this strange world. Up we head to the wall. Alone all day, with perfect sunny weather and awesome climbing - the first pitch of Stern Sturn proves cumbersome, but afterwards it constantly gets better. With almost 200meters, the day turns out well.

Terracotta Soldiers or the Burried Army

What better soldiers than those out of terre cuite? That's what i think anyway, although it might not exactly be a defendable concept for the weapons' market or the political elite. Hey, don't the chinese possess the wisdom in its infinitesimal detail? That's at least how their First Emperor saw his army - all terracotted!

Seriously though, this is a stunning story a friend of mine brought up in conversation last week as she visited the Mausoleum during her China trip. Very like the Egyptians, a Qin emperor Shi Huangdi, who also was the instigator of the Great Wall (unifying several pre-existing walls), started to create his burial monument when he became emperor. The project was finished a couple of years after his death, taking over 700 000 workers and over 30 years to complete. The result is one of the most extra-ordinary archeological finds of the last century - over 8 000 soldiers and their horses, each sculpted with a unique facial expression, garment and color depending on rank that protect the yet unexcavated tomb of the emperor. Sure, this is more of an immortality dream than anything else, in addition to being a strong symbol of China's power (reflected nowadays through several medium, i.e. Zhang Yimou's movies) and nationalism. But then it is also a monument to those 700 000 workers (and no, i'm not wearing red today) that managed this feat and created the mystery for us to contemplate - and were supposedly burried at the site as well not to divulge the secrets of the place...

Moral of the story - the emperor died anyway and never managed to find the immortality potion, his army was disarmed and burned a couple of years later (today soldiers have no colors and no weapons), and the whole story forgotten. If not for a couple of well diggers in the 1970ies, Xian would receive much less tourists today!

Paris or a comeback

Paris is a wonderful city. Crowded, polluted, smelly and hot - but it is still great, and it welcomes its old and new lovers with the same open arms. A hot chocolate at LaDurée to start the day, followed by museum visits, a run through le Marais to buy some Jewish delicatessen goodies, and day's end at Berthillon's on Ile St Louis made me wish for more. Notre-Dame looked too white, but Musée Branly is still to visit, as well as the newly restored Musée Guimet.

I was happy to get into the L'Âge d'or de l'Inde Classique expo at Grand Palais - the beauty of the Gupta statues is breathtaking to say the least - unforgettable look from this fellow will stay with me for some time. Another country to visit - oh so big and interesting! Also noticed new books to read - Rushdie's new novel, Shalimar the Clown, and Sealy's Troter-nama.

Last but not least museum of the day - the newly restored Orangerie. Monet and his virtual reality, but also Paul Guillaume's collection I have previously not seen with beautiful Picassos, a couple of Provence paysages of Derrain not to be missed and some Soutine and Modigliani paintings to finish this art-fest for me.

Ducasse in Mons

This is a special folklore party in Mons - Belgians do have incredible customs and their own way to party indeed! It all started in the beginning of the second Millennium, when a supposed dragon or crocodile ravaged the region and a brave Chevalier killed it. How from this legend do you get this?

Go figure. Nowhere else than in Belgium...A way for people to get crazy, mix St George in the matter to keep the inquisition happy and create a bunch of customs as good as any vulgar Romans or Greeks could imagine. A nowadays Chevalier kills the dragon with a pistol and thousands try to get a hair from its tail for good luck...

Go figure again. Afterwards the city is a mass as bad as a mass could be with piss and trash invading all the streets. Even in Paris after July 14th or in Southern France cities after the Corrida you won't find as much trash and piss in one place. Unesco heritage it is!

Last stop - Buoux ***

As snow and rain caught up with us, we headed seawards again and found ourselves in Buoux for the last days enjoying sunlight and scenery. After Spain's low season and a rather solitary nature enjoyment, we got directly into the Provence high season. Disgusting visit to Fontaine de Vaucluse with thousands of merchants at Petrarka's temple, not as disappointing sight of Rousillon the ocre one and Notre Dame de Senanque abbaye.


Climbing in Buoux is superbe though - quality, not too many people, and lots of projects!!! Place to come back to.

El reino de los Mallos de Riglos ***

Looking for a friendly kingdom to visit for a couple of days? Here is a plan for you :

This is a kingdom of an old old king that decided to live in the mountains to escape his enemies and keep his faith. But most of all he enjoyed looking at the towers from his palace - the angry birds flew around them, but sun peacefully washed the hatred away each morning, and the river made things smooth and cozy. One day, the kind died, the queen went away, the ruins and the towers stayed.

Than a thousand years later, climbers showed up. They looked up the towers with the same eyes as did the king. But they had equipment, prowess and a daring mind. Thus the place went crazy, and now you not only see birds, sun and river play games with the stoned giants, but also white lines through overhangs that make for a surreal impression from afar, and prove to be chalk from close-by. Yes, this is a crazy overhanging multi-pitch jug-hauling climber's paradise. Slowly loosing the wild feel, Riglos village is getting more traffic and some boring construction sights - go there while the magic is still around and maybe you will meet the king in some abstruse and humid crack or chimney gaping out at you in wonder.

Aiguille d'Ansabere

Cirque of Lescun is one of the most beautiful and wild valleys I have seen (yes, despite like 20 hikers that passed gaping under our route and the five Galsworthy Englishmen inhabiting for two weeks the Ansabere cabins below - btw they were very nice and ofered us perfect coffee with rom - apparently called Jamaican coffee - boiled in an Irish storm kettle!). Here is the view from the parking lot at our objective - the climbing happens on the very vertical pillar to the right.



We actually tried for the proposed route (Spigolo on Petite Aiguille d'Ansabere) twice, the first attempt finished in rambles as Renaud decided to have stomach ache at 6 am.

The second attempt proved successful although we had to do the 7b pitch through aid and nearly missed a thunderstorm on top that made me enjoy much less the last 2 pitches. Exposure and view from the place are perfect - although climbing-wise we were a little bit disappointed (maybe getting out the aiders had smth to do with that...).



This is me following the 7b pitch, and here is Renaud in the middle of an easier traverse after that.

Finally, the thunderstorm got us just before we joined the five Englishmen for coffee - and here is what we got :

Gorges de la Jonte ***

Awesome place where we spend the next 2 days and even meet the nababs Petje and Paul working their projects in Tarn. After some beer sharing, we fall into the high grades mood and try a route up la Cathedrale the last day. Fearesome undertaking with a first 6c off-width-chimney-mummy-i'm-being-born pitch, second oh-my-god traverse with a humble 5c, and a third powerful 6c+ a1...The easiest up this surreal face. Rappelling down is also fun - partly due to a look you get on all those other climbs.

Here is another cool picture of Vase de Seve and me toproping the final pitch.

Seynes or Colonettes Paradise

First stop, after a very welcome night and breadfast at Thomas' place (best man for croissants and a smile in the morning) we head to Seynes, one of the rare places without rain for the start of our vacation.

After a fun initiation sector, Renaud goes for his project - very photogenic and polished neural tube. Looks like a bridal veil and is more about chimney climbing than real colonettes fun. Unfortunately other colonettes climbs around look too hard, we move to more crimpy right side to finish the day.

Vacation Times

Finally i got my long week of vacation for climbing and tourism.

Destination - south and west.

Means - car and enthusiasm.

Starting the trip on Wednesday, may 16th, back to work on tuesday, may 29th. Will follow parts and pieces of this europe circumventing.

Let the journey begin.

Koln Cathedral, symbol of our times

It took over 600 years to build (Segrada Familia in Barcelona still has to grow up!), 14 bombs destroyed it during the 2nd WW, leaving it nevertheless one of the only buildings standing in the city. And now, visiting Cologne, it is the ugliest building around, black and pollution-eaten.

Hopper and an Art minute

Another American influenced by Europe but back to create his own world. Solitude and civilization be its name.

The Light Side or Envers des Aiguilles

After a failed ski touring project to Grand Combin we changed plans from all to all and went climbing rock in the sun at Envers des Aiguilles. The new Piola topo was certainly worth a try - confirmation received, it is full of gems. They are long, sustained, and pure - 'Little Yosemite' or some of France's best granite - you can call it what you want, but Envers des Aiguilles climbing is superb.

Although early for the season, we found 2 other dare-devils at the Envers refuge, full of food, fuel, and even a wine and a grappa bottle. The dare-devils were nice enough to leave us their Nutella, for witch we are immensely grateful! Despite the snow on the approach and totally wet shoes, climbing prooved doable and pleasant. Some problems to start, but than the way to the top goes smoothly as long as the muscles keep it up.

Here is the Patagonian challenge - 20cm between rock and this snow cork at the start of Tout va mal - don't breathe and reduce the butt size to a minumum exercise - an interesting experience to say the least.

Routes are long, sustained and difficult. This 5c, a perfect diedre pitch on Subtilites Dulferiennes, without a bolt or anything else except some pinky flowers to match the rope in the flaring crack, is a wonderful challange for any dedicated sport climber.

If limestone is not always my favorite, crack climbing prooved as tiresome and challanging - but beautiful nevertheless. Certainly an area to go back to.

Routes done (or almost as each time we left a couple of pitches before the top, due to numerous excuses such as darkness approaching, snow storm or just the old beaten 'i'm tired' one...) - Piege, Tout va mal/Subtilites Dulferiennes mix, Guy Anne.

Fil a Plomb and goulotte fun

This planet is going to explode...seeing the summer temperatures we are having around Europe, ski touring is over for this year, and goulottes are getting there too - this april conditions are similar to last June or July.

Why not use them and do another classic - Fil a Plomb, a reputed goulotte finishing on Col du Plan in Cham? It actually prooves to be very worthwhile with interesting climbing and challenging ice. First 500m go through the snow, and than 7 pitches of ice follow. One thin crux, and everything else around 3+ - just get the tools in and go! My only problem being acclimatisation and totally screwed up breathing - oh well, my partner, Christian, is strong and willing, so following becomes more and more comfortable for me. The scenery is awesome and we are almost alone on this N face.

We are slow too, and are ready to start the Midi-Plan traverse at 8, with sun going down and disappearing tracks in the snow. After some rappels and a good scare about being off-route we manage to get to the arete and finish at Cosmiques this long long day.

Afterwards it's my first time in Aosta valley, than some rain in Orco where we do the sightseeing of the famous Disperanza Fissura, and than a route in Boursin valley to finish the stay with a train back from Briancon. Thanks chtur for this short-notice outing!

Presles or Paques Celebration

3 days - and what better spot to visit than Presles, this Vercors gem? I fell in love with the place since my first time there last year. Some people might think the routes repetitive, but i am almost certain this is my type of paradise on earth. So much rock, all hard, all demanding, and than the moment you turn your nose 180 degrees from the rock, happiness gets a hold of you with the ocean of grean and stone and cows below.

My loving Presles certainly didn't stop it from kicking my butt - starting with the first route, Pillier de Charanches. We noticed it in Petit's book and decided to give it a try with all our good cams and nuts. The descent down the Choranche ramp was pretty bad. First pitches were good though, with cracks and cracks and cracks. Second half was harder and more overhanging - less fun IMHO. Underestimating routes has always been my problem - sure we were at the last traverse pitch as it became pitch dark. Surprise surprise, to get back to the trail we still had around 150m of scrambling to do up crappy terrain with rocks, trees, bush and all...Back at the car at 11 calmed down our enthusiasm to try another route recommended by Petit, but a bit harder - Cons qui s'adorent.

We opted for a more classic Coucou nous revoilou the day afterwards. Very nice climbing with awesome pitches at the top and pretty hard 6cs in the middle. A short storm scare, and we were in time for Ezio's lasagne.

Last day we wanted to do shorter, easier climbing to be ready to leave quickly enough in the afternoon. Something i wanted to do since last year - Supercouloir, seemed to be a good idea. The approach with the new Tapis Vert rappels was pretty comfy - but unfortunately we went down too much and had to start with a strenuous 6b to get to the beginning of Supercouloir. This one proved a very nice route - last surprise being the difficulty to get back to the trail - a 7b chosen randomly finally let us out after hard efforts of aiding. First drops of rain caught us at the car. Good climbing - good w-end, but O my god, i'm out of shape...

Berner Oberland and its King

Finally a long ski touring expedition saw us through during these last days of March. Weather got settled and we went off - ready to pay the Jungfraubahn price to penetrate the mistery of this threesome giants' story - Monch endlessly trying to ceduce the Jungfrau and Eiger curiously looking in a different direction with a scorny face.

The first day saw our optimistic plan of going up the Jungfau go down very quickly. We went up the Laumihorn col instead and down to the Konkordia crossing and hutte, as full of snow-excited tourists as possible. Second day saw us up the Gross Fiescherhorn, a pleasant strall, with a final possibility of two summits from the col (see pic below) - Gross or Hinter Fiescherhorn.

I opted for the first one and got the solo ascent of the last 50m of the arrete. That much for my revange on my failed solo attempt on Monch last year. The descent presented us with a beautiful view of our next day's objective, the king of the land - Finsteraahorn.

Finsteraahorn hutte prooved even more comfortable and clean - you would think it were a hotel if not the absence of any water around. The next day was harder for me although I did get to the top - last but not least. The last 200m of the arrete were exceptional - easy but breathtaking thanks to the constant reminders from the North face. Perfect summit, a nice descent and a long long sleep at the hut followed.

The last day we finished with a descent on Munster and a train ride through the Kandersteg tunnel to get back to our car in Spiez. Good trip - and so much more to do!

P.S. - a goat that greated us in Munster, a ghost town à la American Wild West, swiss style.

Glarner Alps or Dolomites in Snow

Lesser-known part of the Swiss Alps (at least to myself), a lost valley and a closed pass - one of the longest-closed passes, rightly called Klausenpass, welcomed us this w-end. It stood up to its reputation - apart from a couple of snowborders on top of the Urnerboden lift (a curiosity in itself, operated by an ageless man speaking some strange language with probable elfish origins), we did not meet any other skiers.

The only human being through the two days was another - trollish this time - guardian of the Clariden hutte. Unfortunately this one was less welcoming and offered us only soup for dinner and scarce bread/jam mix for breakfast. He was not more happy than that to be disturbed in his self-imposed loneliness in this beautiful place.

After some scarry approach on the first day we were alone with over 50cm of fresh powder on these endless glacier plains of Hufifirn.

After the ascent of Clariden (finally, a summit - despite the wind that chased us down), we spent several hours tracking around and back to the Klausenpass and Urnerboden. It is lucky we still have untouched places like these in the heart of Europe.

Jonathan the Goeland

Feeling a bit weary and goellanddy...integral text of this awesome story is available here - http://http://www.lib.ru/RBACH/seagullengl.txt. Bach's best book - his other stories are too personal and full of his details, but this one goes along with Little Prince and the Rose.

Maybe one day our dreams will come true. Maybe not.

Joan Mitchell or when Abstract becomes beautiful

Just wanted to share this pic and a thought for Joan, one of the rare abstract artists i enjoy.

Cham in the Sun, Gervasutti and Piseux

Surprise surprise, wonderful weather for once, perfect forecast - no questions asked, we are off to tick off some long-standing plans for Cham.

More surprises await though. First one - Midi benne is closed because of wind and we depart at 9 instead of planned 7 30. Too bad, we'll go directly for our plan - Gervasutti couloir on Tour Ronde - see this beauty!

Certainly the plan is (as usual) too Napoleonian for me - first couloir, and an S5 to start off - but whatever, just being there is great - i forget the questions and breathe in the air of my temple. It is like last year at Jungfraujoch - sun, mountains, snow. Perfect planet, no problems - breathe in and pray. Snow is also perfect, 20cm of new untouched powder. Down and up we go. A couple of people here and there in the goulottes, a guy has already made steps up our couloir.

Going up the couloir with skis isn't as bad as i thought i manage it pretty well and still close my eyes and ears to the piercing cry of my body - how are you going to ski down that???

Next surprise, the wind that made the telepherique start later gets at us at the second part of the couloir - best of them all, fresh snow blown at you upwards. Very cold and unpleasant - not recommended to try alone at 3000 meters, after 4hr sleep in the car and a long drive from belgium before that. But no choice there. We don't even manage the last 100 meters separating the top of the couloir from the summit - down, the only thought.

No summit again. That is how Cham is used to treat its worshipers.

Here i finally open my eyes and ears to the painful truth - there is no way i'm putting on my skis in this thing - i'm crazy, but not that crazy...We did bring 2 60m ropes for a reason - a couple of painful rappels and i'm down, watching my partner make his curves. Mmm, i should probably learn to ski at some point - not today anyhow.

Going down Vallee Blanche, we are alone again in a windless world. My temple is back. We cannot resist, put our skins on for the most pleasant experience of the w-end - a happy stroll up Helbronner to get a look at the Torino refuge and get some more of the powder. Weather is finally perfect - we even manage to forget the wind. For once, no other place i'd rather be.

Next objective - refuge de Requin, happy place, probably my favorite here.

And off to bed at 8 pm to be up early next morning for another couloir - a more realistic Breche Piseux this time. We still are too heavy - 2 60m ropes, crampons, ice tools - i'm surprised at my sherpa capacities myself. Certainly, we are long as long could be.

Just enough, a quick rappel gets us down to Mont Mallet glacier - and here the wind catches up with us again. A painful descent down the wind-blown piles and a short serac traverse gets us finally exhausted to the Leschaux. Blissful push to the end of Mer de Glace, and a painful drive back brings us in short 6 hours home. My car made its first test drive :).

Fonti paradise

This w-end, after numerous deliberations, we left for Fontainebleau as the weather let us down (again) for any snowy activities due to the avalanche risk. It was not at all a bad idea as conditions were very good, +10 degrees, the famous collante was with us, and the crowds were away.

The first day was a relaxed circuit in Canche aux Merciers - here are a couple of my pics

+my try-out of photoshopping.

The second day we went to Apremont, a very scattered and huge area where even less people enjoyed the perfect light with us. Too bad for them, we had fun despite a rather weak performance scores.